vendredi 6 juillet 2012

My Top 10 scents of summer 2012



For over a year now, I’ve had something I never had in the two decades since I dove in nose-first into niche: a signature scent whose beauty never ceases to hit me at gut level though I know each of its inner workings. Séville à l'aube be launched in France and in London in the third week of July and reach the rest of the world, as far as I know, sometime between late August and September. I’ll be organizing a preview sample draw very soon.

I’ve still managed to fall in love with other fragrances and as soon as I’m able to shift back into full reviewing gear, the first four in this list are slated for full reviews, and I’ll soon be writing up my long conversation with the irresistibly charming Carlos Huber of Arquiste.

Fleur de Louis by Rodrigo Flores-Roux for Arquiste: a languorous iris, jasmine and orange blossom accord that feels both ancient and utterly contemporary, crisp and narcotic. Carlos and I agreed that though it was very different from Séville à l’aube, there was a kinship, and I definitely see a full bottle of this in my future.

Anima Dulcis by Yann Vasnier and Rodrigo Flores-Roux for Arquiste: Despite being as dusky as the patina of a Flemish still life, this ambery cocoa and vanilla aphrodisiac elixir has such a radiant texture it can withstand summer wear without being cloying.

Lumière Blanche by Sidonie Lancesseur for Olfactive Studio: Inspired by Massimo Vitali’s picture of a chalk-white Italian beach, it expresses both the searing heat of the sun at its zenith and the soothing coolness of a lotion with its cold (cardamom, star anise) and hot (cinnamon) spices, almond milk and iris accord.An essay in tones of white -- that's even the color of the juice. The picture above is taken from the same series. For the photo that inspired Sidonie Lancesseur, see the French version below.

Mito by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo: Only coming out in September, but a little sample has found its way to Paris and again, I’m smitten. This gorgeous green-magnolia chypre has the satisfying, old-school carnality of Vero’s three first compositions, but I suspect those who found Rubj, Kiki and Onda to be too much of a commitment for everyday wear might succumb. This is, in a way, a member of the Cristalle family on steroids.

Baiser Volé Extrait de Parfum by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier: In this version, Mathilde’s original idea – skin rubbed with lily, petals, stem, pollen and all – is more fully expressed than in the eau deparfum. When I first smelled Baiser Volé in this formula, the most intelligent comment I could manage was a throaty moan.  The Moan is good.

Lotus Rose by François Robert and Marie-Hélène Rogeon for Parfums de Rosine: This smells like those sprayed-on powders that produce a cool effect on skin – a huge, citrus-floral cloud of white musk with a slightly moist feel. The term “aquatic” in descriptions might scare some aficionados away, but what I get here is a lovely, fresh cosmetic scent. “Clean” is not always a dirty word.

Prodigieux le Parfum by Serge Majoullier for Nuxe: Along with La Petite Robe Noire, this review is what’s been getting the most French hits on the blog, and no wonder since Nuxe is a cult brand here. Prodigieux, the fine fragrance translation of Huile Prodigieuse, fits the slot for the tropical, tanning lotion scent in the summer perfume wardrobe.

Robert Cavalli for Her by Louise Turner for Roberto Cavalli: I’d actually started writing a post to diss this, but this  ambery oil slick of 1970s Bain de Soleil – “The Saint-Tropez tan” -- spiked with Fanta holds the same fascination for me as over-tanned Italian women wearing gold jewelry on the beach. In a way, with its orange blossom and balsam accord, this could be the script for Séville à l’aube filmed by Cinecitta at the height of its swords-and-sandals era. Sometimes, in summer, gaudy is the only way to go.

For more summer Top Tens, see:




16 commentaires:

  1. Didn't even realize there was a Baiser Vole extrait... verrrrrry interesting....

    RépondreSupprimer
  2. Susan, it's actually not very widely available since there isn't a huge market for extrait, but it's been out since late last year.

    RépondreSupprimer
  3. This is such a great list, D! I really want to try Lotus Rose. By the way, Baiser Volé Extrait is wonderful. I sampled it a couple of months ago at Saks5thAvenue, where it has a lovely display.

    Finally, where is Prodigieux le Parfum sold in France? I have smelled it, but I haven't seen it here in Brussels.

    RépondreSupprimer
  4. Victoria, here in France Prodigieux is sold in pharmacies and parapharmacies that carry Nuxe.

    RépondreSupprimer
  5. Hello Denyse
    Did you get to try the Leather Arquiste Aleksandr ?. I thought it was very subtle, but also, quite beautiful.

    RépondreSupprimer
  6. Chris, yes I did: it's the third of the collection I love...

    RépondreSupprimer
  7. I saw the Baiser Vole extrait here in Montréal at Holt Renfrew but no tester... Did get to test Séville à l'Aube at Ogilvy's though... Great stuff and excellent sillage & longevity... Hopefully it will arrive at Neiman Marcus next month at the release when I am back in San Diego!

    RépondreSupprimer
  8. Tara, thanks for letting me know the tester of Séville à l'aube has arrived in Montreal -- three cheers for my home town! Pity about Baiser Volé, though. It's really my favorite version.

    RépondreSupprimer
  9. Hi Denyse, I'm eagerly waiting for your piece on the Arquiste line and the interview with Carlos. I've tried samples of the whole line and my wallet screams in terror as I really think I need three of the six as my own... Fortunately/unfortunately they're not available at any European perfume e-tailers yet. Also looking forward to their upcoming "Boutonnière" fragrance.

    RépondreSupprimer
  10. Mikael, tell me about it! I already have Anima Dulcis, but I'm craving Fleur de Louis and Aleksandr... I still haven't had a moment to transcribe the interview, it'll probably come out in about 10 days.

    RépondreSupprimer
  11. If Arquiste perfumes are as fascinating as Mr Carlos is... I've seen their site, fortunately they aren't available in Italy, yet, I'll manage to test them in Paris, if I'll have time left.
    So happy I'll have the chance to fully test and maybe buy Séville, too!

    RépondreSupprimer
  12. Iodine, Carlos is indeed a very lovely person (and so handsome too). He'll be at Pitti, he told me, as I will. Meanwhile, Arquiste is available in Paris at Jovoy and L'Eclaireur. Séville à l'aube won't be sold until, I think, July 27th, but the testers are there.

    RépondreSupprimer
  13. I haven't smelled a single one of these! Even though I went to Jovoy recently. Also I somehow completely missed out on l'Artisan on my last visit to Paris, and I so wanted to try Séville.
    I thought I had a sample of the Nuxe as I got one when I bought a bottle of the Huile Prodigieuse but someone must have drained it as it is empty. I can still smell the scent from the empty sample; it seems very nice.

    RépondreSupprimer
  14. Austenfan, I try to focus on new things so I won't repeat myself from one seasonal top 10 to another, especially since that's mostly what I've been testing out -- no time to go back to old favorites, unfonrtunately! The Nuxe is quite nice.

    RépondreSupprimer
  15. That is perfectly fine with me! I just enjoy your blog so much and was disappointed with myself for not having smelled any of these; until I discovered the Nuxe. But to add to my deception the little échantillon I had was empty.
    I only had 2 days in Paris and wanted to do some sightseeing as well as smelling. But it seems kind of stupid to walk past a l'Artisan shop (albeit on the other side of the road) and not enter it. My only excuse is that it was an incredibly hot day.

    RépondreSupprimer
  16. Austenfan, it's the most legitimate thing in the world to want to enjoy Paris and not just Parisian perfumes! Especially with only two days... After all, you can order samples, but it's a little harder to slip the city in an envelope!

    RépondreSupprimer