Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles: Pine Potion

What fragrance to wear now the pandemic is on us?

I’d say Serge Lutens’ newest export line addition, Fille en Aiguilles, would neatly do the trick. Not that the aiguilles (“needles”) in the name reference hypodermic syringes, nor sewing needles, nor even stiletto heels – talons aiguilles – for that matter. No, those needles are the ones that strew forest floors.

Filles en Aiguilles’ gale-force cool-hot sillage of pine essence is powerful enough to clear sinuses and leave an aftertaste down the throat… This medicinal facet is compounded by the pungent, camphorous burn of vetiver: the essence is served up raw, un-brightened by the usual hesperidic notes, not unlike its treatment in Isabelle Doyen’s Turtle Vétiver for LesNez. A scorched, gun-powdery incense darkens the green, gem-like radiance of the resinous blend. The combustible fumes last several hours before exhaling softer fir balsam facets, with a hint of Lutens’ trademark candied fruit sweetening the uncharacteristic -- for him -- rawness of the terpenic notes. In fact, if this were presented by a smaller indie outfit, no one would bat a lash.

Fille en Aiguilles is a simple and strangely comforting blend, evocative of throat lozenges, turpentine and pine forests. With its salubrious aura, it almost feels more like an antiseptic potion than a perfume, harking back to the use of strong aromatic materials to ward off the foul miasma thought to carry disease in the pre-Pasteur era. Perhaps that’s just what Dr. Serge ordered against the evil bugs that may, or may not engulf us come autumn.

A bit of magical thinking never hurts and magic is pretty much what the alchemist of the Palais Royal does best.

Image: Madeline von Foerster, Angel.