mercredi 15 mars 2023

Tuberosa 1974 de Betty Busse (1974)/ Dominique Ropion (2021) pour Chloé : Tubéreuse nubile


S’il fallait lui donner une couleur ? Cuisse de nymphe émue. Ou alors « bout de jeune sein », cette piquante métaphore troussée par Colette pour décrire le bouton de tubéreuse… Rafraîchi d’un glacis d’aldéhydes, saupoudrée de cannelle comme une joue tavelée par le soleil, ce parfum à l’arrondi de pêche couchée sur fond de mousse se nommait Chloé lorsqu’il fut lancé en 1974 par les Parfums Lagerfeld. Rebaptisé Tuberosa 1974 lors de sa réédition dans L’Atelier des fleurs de Chloé, le parfum offre un rare aperçu de son inspiratrice -- plutôt tendre ici que criminelle, enjouée que charnelle. Une interprétation de la tubéreuse qu’écraseront bientôt les divas à épaulettes des années bling, de Giorgio à Amarige en passant par Poison… Est-ce à cet oubli qu’elle doit aujourd’hui son allure de jeunesse ? 

Créé en 1974 par Betty Busse, le parfum a été réorchestré en 2021 par Dominique Ropion. Si quelqu'un a pu comparer les deux versions je serais enchantée d'avoir son avis. J'ai porté le premier Chloé à l'époque où T-Rex arpentait encore les scènes, mais cette version nouvelle, que j'adore, ne réveille pas de souvenirs d'adolescence....

(Le texte ci-dessus, sauf le dernier paragraphe, est paru à l'origine dans le cahier critique de Nez N°11 en 2021).

Illustration: Détail des Baigneuses de Jean-Honoré Fragonard, parce que personne n'a mieux su peindre les cuisses de nymphe que le maître grassois.

10 commentaires:

  1. "Thank you for this insightful blog post on Tuberosa 1974 by Betty Busse and Dominique Ropion for Chloé. As a lover of tuberose fragrances, I was thrilled to discover the history and evolution of this captivating note.

    It's fascinating to learn about the original Tuberosa 1974 by Betty Busse and how it made waves in the fragrance world back in 1974. The description of its creamy, indolic, and seductive nature truly piques my interest. It's remarkable to see how this fragrance has stood the test of time and continues to captivate perfume enthusiasts even today.

    The collaboration between Betty Busse and Dominique Ropion for Chloé's Nubile Tuberose is equally intriguing. Ropion is a master perfumer known for his exceptional creations, and I can only imagine the magic he has woven into this updated version of Tuberosa 1974. The idea of a nubile tuberose, with its youthful and vibrant character, adds a fresh perspective to the fragrance.

    I appreciate the detailed comparison between the two versions and the exploration of the differences and similarities. It helps to understand how the modern reinterpretation has evolved while retaining the essence of the original. It's a testament to the skill and talent of both perfumers.

    I'm excited to explore Grain de Musc and learn more about the world of fragrance through your blog. Thank you for providing such informative and engaging content. I look forward to reading more of your articles and discovering new fragrances and olfactory experiences.

    Kazi Mainuddin Anik

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