Gentle reader, this is it: my very first trip to the West Coast. Three days in L.A. for work, then three days in Portland to visit a friend, and a couple of nights in a historic Hollywood hotel before flying back to Paris.
Of course I’ve
been obsessing over my suitcase ever since I’ve known I was going. And of course my entire collection of swimsuits
was reviewed, found lacking a certain je-ne-sais-quoi, and promptly replaced by
an all-new line-up. Those swimsuits are going to be immersed in a pool painted
by David Hockney! And those are the only items I’m sure about, less than a week
before flying off, especially I’ve decided to live dangerously and travel 10
days out of a carry-on.
And I haven’t even begun to think about what to
decant. Scents can veer into radically different directions when worn in a new
setting. I’m still obsessed with À ce
soir by Pont des Arts and L’Âme
perdue by Le Galion, so those might make the cut. Otherwise, here are my
possibilities, with no particular theme in mind. They’re pretty much all over
the map. Please do weigh in!
Nomade, Chloé
Like L.A.’s new NoMad hotel, set in a Neo-classical
bank building from the 1920s, Nomade evokes
the ghosts of bygone glamor. Quentin Bisch composed it as an airy fruity
chypre, stripped-down and built for speed. The fruit is mirabelle, a tiny,
particularly fragrant golden plum. The mossy base is evernyl, which gives Nomade a very contemporary,
salty-mineral edge.
Un air d’apogée, Violet
I utterly adore this new house, revived by three
students of the École Supérieure du Parfum in Paris – they founded it in place
of scouting around for internships, and convinced Firmenich to back them.
Nathalie Lorson has done wonderful work reinventing the three first scents, but
I’ve got a special tenderness for the pollen-dusted suede, the tannic tang of maté,
mimosa and fresh tobacco leaf of Un air d’apogée.
When I go, I want to be drowned in a vat of Cashmeran, is what I’m saying.
Chinotto di Liguria, Acqua di Parma
So Santa Monica isn’t the Ligurian Riviera, and I
doubt California grows the myrtle-leaved orange tree that gives chinotto, a bitter citrus fruit used as
an aroma in Campari. But Chinotto di
Liguria, a Roudnitskaesque variation on Eau
Sauvage and Eau d’Hermès by
François Demachy, is as delightful and refreshing as quaffing a Spritz, which I
hope I shall be doing shortly by the pool.
Grand amour, Goutal
I’ve recently rediscovered Isabelle Doyen’s tribute to
Chamade, and I’ve been getting off on
the huge blast of galbanum that slaps me when I spritz. The contrast between that
raspy green hyacinth and the nectar-slick creaminess of the lily-honeysuckle heart
makes Grand amour a very distant
forerunner of Doyen’s award-winning Nuit
de Bakélite for Naomi Goodsir.
L’innommable, Serge Lutens
I somehow doubt I’d be allowed into the country with
Serge’s latest, his first for the Gratte-ciel (“skyscraper”) line that will
henceforth house Tubéreuse criminelle,
Muscs Koublaï Khan, Bornéo 1834, Cuir
mauresque, and 5 more signature scents… In French, innommable means “unspeakable”. And L’innommable cuts loose on the skank, peppering powdery benzoin
with a kegful of cumin. The sandalwood base only seems to get stronger as the
scent dries down. What can I say? The Dude abides.
Superstitious, Frédéric Malle
Not sure Golden Era scents can express themselves
properly in today’s L.A., so for that Polo Lounge vibe, I suppose I could do
worse than slink around in Dominique Ropion’s stripped-down homage to the
glamour of yore, the aldehydes-meet-indole Superstitious.
Eau de soleil blanc, Tom Ford
Orange, coconut, pistachio, vanilla… The notes reads like
a raid on the ice-cream menu in a Howard Johnson. The result, in Tom Ford’s
more-is-more olfactory aesthetic, makes me want to channel my inner Don Draper,
going AWOL in California with a louche Eurotrash tribe.
Eau de narcisse bleu, Hermès
After the spiky-woods fest that is Eau de Citron Noir – which I innocently
sprayed on my skin thinking Hermès could do no wrong, and made me consider
flaying my own arm --, I reached for my personal favorite Ellena. A sea-blue
bottle, a salubrious whiff of horsiness, and, again, that tannic bitter rasp I
find so interesting (and underexploited) in perfumery… Now channeling Nina van
Pallandt on the beach in Altman’s 1973 Long
Goodbye.
Eau de Ki, Sankodo
This isn’t technically a fragrance, but a Japanese
moisturizing lotion – but because of its alcohol content, more of a
cleanser-toner. No idea whether it’ll fulfill its rejuvenating promises
(anti-aging skincare is a bit like psychoanalysis: you don’t know if it does
anything, but you don’t know what condition you’d be in without it). Anyhoo,
with rose, linden blossom, rosemary and birch among its ingredients, Eau de Ki smells of a fabulous rose
chypre – think Knowing. I’d bathe in
it if I could.
Bio Beauté Baume haute nutrition, Nuxe
Another entry in the please-don’t-eat-the-skincare
column. A tiny pot of this cold-cream landed in my bag as a sample. The rosewater,
sweet almond oil, coconut oil and bee wax smells utterly delicious. I may turn
up my nose at gourmands, but after I’ve slathered my legs with this it’s all I
can do not to twist like a pretzel to lick my shins. Failing that, I’m pretty
sure it’ll be a skin-saver after too many dips in that Hockney pool…
For more summer round-ups, please dip into Bois de Jasmin, Now Smell This and The Non-Blonde.
These all sound gorgeous, but the only ones I know are Narcisse Bleue - which I wear often - and Grand Amour, which I used to have a small decant of. The ashtray edge of the galbanum (I think?) was quite something, but I did love it...Now I need to try all the others.
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