mardi 6 juillet 2010

The Mystery of Musk: Sharini Parfums Naturels Graines de Paradis, Wild Musk Honey...



More and more consumers question the provenance and quality of their food: it was only logical that this attitude would shift over to fragrance at some point. This is why Hermès goes through the trouble of sending Jean-Claude Ellena along with a film crew all the way to Kerala to promote Un Jardin après la Mousson, even though the man (filmed with his blotters and vials on a boat as though he were literally composing during his trip) might as well have done the whole thing safe and cosy in his lab in Cabris: to establish some sort of traceability. And this is why one of the most frequent questions customers ask sales assistants at perfume counters is “Is it all natural?” even though most people peg an artificial fruit aroma as the real thing, choosing it over the actual extract. They want to think they’re buying a fragrance that’s made up of things that were actually alive at some point. Fair enough.

Perfume has always been something people buy based on their aspirations and dreams. Whether what makes you dream is Beyoncé, Jean-Claude Ellena in the Indian monsoon or cool, funky people picking wild cherries on May 24th in the Hérault valley is entirely up to you. The dream isn’t added value: it’s what you breathe in at the same time as your sillage. And perfume isn’t what’s in the bottle: it’s the perfumer’s story, added to yours.


And Sharini Parfums Naturels, a small outfit based in Aniane, a gorgeous little village near Montpellier, has a lovely story to tell. Not only does the spectacularly bearded and mustachioed Nicolas Jennings source exclusively organic materials, but he also produces several of them. Graines de Paradis (“Paradise Seeds”), his work for The Mystery of Musk, contains a few of these “made in Sharini” materials. This undoubtedly adds to the charm of his fragrance, something Nicolas Jennings is clearly aware of since he provides all the details on the Sharini website. Four of his floral essences – tiaré, neroli, jasmine and broom, the latter personally harvested by him – were extracted with the gentle, traditional, painstaking method of enfleurage, laying blossoms on coats of non-scented fat, and replacing them until the fat has absorbed enough essential oils. Other materials (wild cherries, Rooibos red tea and vanilla) were obtained by tincture: soaking them in alcohol until it is sufficiently saturated with their aroma.

There must be something immensely gratifying in being part of the whole chain of production, pre-Industrial Revolution style: the fields, the harvest, the slow process of coaxing plants into giving up their spirit, the blending… And this tender, holistic approach has somehow seeped into Graines de Paradis. There is a generosity and a lushness to it that seems to capture the soul of the blossoms that gave it (their) life…

After an initial effervescence that reminds me of some of my favorite winter fruit salads (mandarins and grapefruit steeped in fresh ginger), the scent quickly veers into a sweet floral blend. The cognac, vanilla and cherry, with its almond facets, lend an almost caramelized flavor to the honeyed accord of broom, linden and orange blossom. This orange blossom honey effect lasts for hours, relayed by a jasmine-sandalwood accord. Patchouli, oliban and aged agarwood are also listed in the notes, but don’t express themselves particularly strongly (I think the formula could have been even shorter without affecting the effects sought out), whereas the vegetal musk duet of ambrette and angelica suffuse the scent throughout. This is what ties in Graines de Paradis with the “Mystery of Musk” theme: it is far from being an all-botanical, organic rendering of the musk note, but it does offer an interpretation of a slightly gourmand musky floral.

Graines de Paradis has a lazy summer afternoon sensuousness to it, a decent amount of sillage and, due to the “heavier” base notes, a good longevity. I picked it out as the one I would be giving away for the draw before trying out all of the Mystery of Musk submissions, because I thought that being shipped within the borders of France, it didn’t run as many risks of being stolen or damaged in transit. I’m glad I did: I’ve been enjoying my little holiday to Nicolas’ paradise in the South of France.



Just drop a comment if you want to be entered into the draw for Sharini Parfums Naturels Graine de Paradis: it is a rare opportunity, as there are only 25 bottles produced!



Other blogs participating in The Mystery of Musk:


Olfactarama
Basenotes

You can also follow the Mystery of Musk operation on Anya McCoy's blogroll.


Illustration: Walnut of Eden by Vladimir Kush, sourced from Femmefemmefemme.


108 commentaires:

  1. Thank you for the descriptions of the traditiononal processes. I love the idea of "enfleirage." I've read several reviews of Grains de Paradis now and it sounds wonderful.

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  2. Krista, so I take it you'd like to be entered in the draw? You're in.

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  3. This one sounds fascinating, not least because of how it's made.

    Please enter me for the draw; thanks very much indeed.

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  4. Persolaise, sometimes knowing the back story *does* make a difference. You're in.

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  5. This was one of my clear favorites of the Mystery Of Musk samples I've tried so far.

    And you are quite right, different marketing works for different people. The idea that Beyonce helped produce a fragrance just makes me roll my eyes, but I can't help but feel a little thrilled at the idea I'm wearing a fragrance scented with cherries that were ripe on the tree just a month ago. It has nothing to do with the fragrance itself, as it might be just as nice with a cherry aromachemical added to the blend, but the idea is potently appealing.

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  6. Sugandaraja, as for myself, it's the idea of enfleurage, so redolent of Grasse in the 18th century (sans Grenouille, please).

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  7. What a lovely fragrance and review.
    I would love a full bottle..it is like reading a desert menu...

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  8. I could almost smell it while reading your blog. A beautiful description. I would be honored to be one of the lucky few!

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  9. Oh, it sounds lovely! I just bought some cherries this morning and have been enjoying them so much. And that "hand-made" quality is so intriguing and attractive. Please enter me in the draw.

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  10. Sounds Lovely! It's so romantic - the idea of the perfumer creating his own raw materials, and I know that Anya and many others do the same as well. After trying Vamp a NY, I am really curious to try other natural perfumes. Please enter me in the draw.

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  11. I would love to be entered in the draw for a bottle of Grains de Paradis. This was one of my favorites from the Mystery of Musk. I received the 8% sample version and swooned. However, the envelope with the 16% edp arrived sans parfum! (Perhaps there is a postal carrier wearing Grains de Paradis and smiling now.)

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  12. This sounds delicious - especially the broom and linden bit, both of which are scents I love in their natural state and enjoy finding in perfumes. I've never come across a cherry note in a perfume, it sounds intruiging. Please count me in!

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  13. I admit that I'm also intrigued by the enfleurage process used for this perfume, as well as the locally gathered ingredients. It's true that "the story" adds another level to a fragrance - it's one of the reasons I find myself drawn to the indie perfumers. Please include me in the draw as well.

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  14. sensous lazy afternoon - like a perfect description of my scent...

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  15. Lovely, D.

    My favorite line: "And perfume isn’t what’s in the bottle: it’s the perfumer’s story, added to yours."

    Count me in,
    Marcus

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  16. It would be lovely to be lucky enough win a full bottle. I so enjoyed the small sample I got I used it all up already!

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  17. Amy, you're in! Been enjoyed my first melon de Cavaillon myself...

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  18. OperaFan, you're in. It does add something, doesn't it?

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  19. Charna, sadly, it seems more and more sample envelopes arrive empty. Postal workers have caught on to all that sample swapping it seems... You're in.

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  20. Parfymerad, you've got cherry notes in Serge Lutens Rahat Loukhoum and Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire, but it's not hugely common. You're in.

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  21. Dionne, you're in for a scented trip to the Hérault valley.

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  22. Bellatrix, that's where I wish I were now! You're in.

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  23. Marcus, that's my new philosophy, and I'm not the only one who thinks that way. You're in.

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  24. Lucy, you know, I think my sample will go the same way. You're in.

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  25. Thanks for introducing me to this perfumer. The packaging is beautiful... not overly feminine and I'm dying to know what his iris and jasmine scents are like.. in addition to Graines de Paradis. Eventually, I think all houses will come out with a "green" line but how that will weigh in with IFRA... I wonder. People are much more likely to be alergic to natural materials... no?

    Normand

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  26. Normand, Sharini is IFRA-compliant. Often it's a matter of % in a formula or of concentration. I agree that we'll be seeing a lot more organic or natural products in the coming years as there seems to be huge demand for it, judging by the number of people asking for them at the perfume counters. The industry went too far along the synthetics overdose to make cheaper formulas, and now there's a backlash.
    You're in.

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  27. Thank you for the wonderful read (yet again), this sounds nice. Please do enter me in the draw!

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  28. Sure, I'll throw my hat in the ring. I have honey-loving skin. Though if the bottle has to make it to Texas in the summer I don't know how all those tenderly extracted naturals will be hold up...

    What kind of fat, btw, does he use for the enfleurage? I'm assuming not the traditional lard (imagine the horror of all those natural-seeking vegetarians!). Trygve Harris over at NYC's Enfleurage has been using palm butter. They sell the remaining fat as a (quite lovely) product itself.

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  29. How marvelous & original this sounds. Am reminded of wearing cherries as earrings.

    I have hopes that natural perfumery will develop in more technically advanced & interesting directions - alongside the Artisanal methods. Love in a bottle.

    Looked on the site in hopes of image of said fine set of whiskers, but not to be seen...

    I would be most grateful if you would enter me in the draw, please.

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  30. Interesting- I wonder how this compares to CO2 extraction... I would love to have a sniff...

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  31. I have to admit that I not usually drawn to natural fragrances, but this one really intrigues me. I am impressed by the complexity of fragrances here; other natural scents I have tried have been one or two-note wonders. Thank you for offering a sample to your readers.

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  32. I really love the idea of natural perfumes. I'd never shun the synthetics, but I'm glad there seems to be a growing trend. I'd love to try it!

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  33. I think you really captured the spirit of the Mystery of Musk project by stating that "perfume isn't what's in the bottle: it's the perfumer's story, added to yours." As these reviews begin to wrap up, you guys have made it clear just how these perfumes have mixed with your own stories, transforming them in your own way. Now I, the eager outsider am waiting to be changed =)

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  34. I'd love to try it for the backstory alone. Hat me!

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  35. Great review and thanks for introducing me to the House! :)
    I`d love to try it.

    And you always charm me with the pictures of great taste.

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  36. This perfume certainly sounds interesting, I know I like all of the notes mentioned but have never before encountered them in a perfume together. All of the care put into the creation of this scent, it must be lovely!

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  37. What beautiful descriptions of the perfume as well as the extraction processes, and you've captured the appeal of handcrafted natural fragrances so artfully. Please enter me into the drawing. I would love to have the opportunity to experience this perfume.
    Thank you!
    Sharon
    Eliora Perfumes

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  38. The perfume sounds fantastic. His commitment to creating authentic "slow" perfumes is astounding.
    I would love a chance to win this gem of a bottle!(of bottle of gem!)

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  39. D, This is one of my favorite reviews of yours....or anywhere possibly. I am drooling over your illustrations of experiencing this scent. I hope to have some good luck and win myself a bottle.

    Thank you for hosting the giveaway,
    Trish

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  40. Alyssa, I believe it's palm butter here too. I've seen Trygve's stuff and I'm dying to try it, thanks for reminding me, I'll have to take the plunge on that gardenia concrete!

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  41. Monski, go on to "contact" on the Sharini website and you'll see them in their full glory (along with a thriving head of hair).

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  42. Alexander, Nicolas also uses CO2 extracted materials (ginger, rose, linden, angelica and oliban).

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  43. Nbh, the things I've received for the Mystery of Musk operation are more complex than that, thank God... you're in.

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  44. Womo, to me that thought applies to all perfume, when it's made by an author -- but in fact, even the simplest, most creatively challenged blend, if it is appropriated by the person wearing it, could qualify.

    You're in.

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  45. Yuko, I thought about the "slow perfume" analogy then forgot to write it... You're in!

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  46. Trish, thank you. See, after kvetching on Monday I'd pretty much raised the bar for myself so the little grey cells went to work... You're in.

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  47. I would love to be included in the draw.

    /Sara
    Sweden

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  48. Oh! What a story!
    I think it would be a real joy to spend some time with Mr Jennings in Aniane.
    Please enter me in the draw.

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  49. Oh, my God! This perfume sounds amazing. It could be just the kind of fragrance that I'm looking for at this moment. And what a coincidence! In two weeks I'll be in Montpellier on holiday.

    I'd love to enter in the draw! Thank you!

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  50. I know you've said something akin to this before, but I just love it: perfume isn't what's in the bottle, it's the perfumer's story added to yours. Ah, love it! That's going to give me something to think about for a while!

    And hey, throw me in for the draw. Why not!

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  51. Would love to try this! Thanks, D!

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  52. This sounds like something my wife would love. Please enter me in the draw.

    My experience with all natural perfumes is very limited, and I still haven't quite learned their quite different language. But I'm enjoying the "Mystery of Musk" series all the more because of that.

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  53. So many comments feel intimidating !

    This was a lovely find, Graines.
    Truly beautiful, and an animalic delight.

    Bises !

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  54. Wow, I don't think I've ever tried an all natural scent from an indie perfumer before but your brilliantly evocative review really wets my appetite!
    Thank-you for your very entertaining and informative review.

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  55. Jared, you mean I'm starting to repeat myself? Must be the heat... Mind you, it bears repeating. You're in!

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  56. Fernando, you're in. But if you win, I'll leave you to fight it out with your wife!

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  57. Ida, you're in just the same. You know it's little Jicky who picks the winner, don't you?

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  58. Thanks for this wonderful report.

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  59. RM, this was pretty much a first for me too. You're in!

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  60. Your choice of pictures is always great. How do you do that? ;)

    I like/love many florals with a honeyed feel: l'amoureuse, une rose chyprée, divine, 31 rue cambon...
    So you managed to make me curious;
    please enter me in the draw!

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  61. Zazie, the pick of pictures takes me almost as much time as the write-ups. Sometimes I set some I like aside while I browse, they always come in handy...
    You're in.

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  62. I'd love to be entered in the draw--this sounds lush and ethereal at the same time. Thank you!

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  63. Another lovely review and opportunity to test something rare and exotic! Please enter me in the draw. Regards, Ela

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  64. Broom and linden blossoms? Sounds like heaven to me! Please enter me in the draw.

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  65. Oh, I wish my vial of this would arrive soon!! I'll be so sad if it doesn't....Count me in for the drawing. The description of the cherry-picking reminds me of harvest time at the dacha (berries and cherries)- but by the time to go home, people had usually eaten most of what they'd harvested! None left for perfumes.
    -Marla

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  66. Marla, you didn't get it yet? Mind you, I only got my SIP sample today, Alfredo Dupetit and Jane Cate are still AWOL... Not surprising that with such a huge international undertaking as this operation there'd be a couple of glitches.
    Ah... cherries... sounds like wild strawberries picking to me! Barely enough left for the confitures!
    You're in.

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  67. It really sounds beautiful and I so enjoyed reading your review. Please nenter me in the draw.

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  68. Please enter me in the draw, if its not too late!!! Thanks Denyse!

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  69. Very fascinating story and fragrance. I wasn't familiar with Nicolas' work until this project and I'm certainly glad to have been introduced to Graines de Paradis.

    Lisa

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  70. Late to the party again, please enter me in the draw if possible.

    A truly clever & lyrical review as usual and I second Zazie's comment on the illustrations, always an apt & interesting reflection of the text.

    Can't wait to read your impressions of the DSH entry Musc au Natural as this one seems to be tickling several reviewers fancies.

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  71. Please enter me in the draw -I hope it's still open.
    Grain de musc is simply the BEST perfume site! Interesting, sophisticated, and good looking.
    I'm waiting for your book.
    Thanks,
    Mellisu

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  72. I am so excited about this series! Thank you for participating. I've already purchased a bottle based on some reviews from this series, whoops!

    I'd love to be in the lottery for this Grains de Paradis bottle, but if it's too late, I understand! Thanks.

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  73. Please enter me in the draw - I've started exploring various musks after reading about this project.

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  74. Lisa, now I'm very curious about Nicolas' work as well. In fact it's all I can do not to zip down to the Herault to see him do his stuff!

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  75. Maggie, you're not the only one who's late: the Mystery of Musk was meant to last until yesterday and I've still got... well, all of the scents to go. I've already written up Dawn's Musk eau natural, the review will come out on Monday.
    You're in.

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  76. Mellisu, thank you for your kind words. You're in.

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  77. Heidi, it's not too late yet. You're in. Which perfume, enquiring minds want to know?

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  78. I would love to try this perfume, and was very interested to learn about the methods used to create it.

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  79. Ok folks, from now on it's too late to participate in the draw. The winner will be announced on Monday.

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  80. I grabbed a bottle of the Tallulah B. from Etsy. It just sounded exactly right for me.

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  81. Heidi, that's one of the two that never made it to me...

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  82. I just got to the Musky Blogging Fest and I'm reading you first ; )

    I'm probably too late for the drawing, but just in case I wanted to comment! I have been intrigued by this perfumer since Trish blogged about them, inclluding the loveliest picture of the actual location which I gaze at longingly from time to time! This scent sounds like it has my name on it -- honeyed orange blossom indeed!

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  83. Wendy, I'm afraid it *is* too late. Isn't that place gorgeous, though? I hope to make it there sometime...

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  84. I would love to try this! Please enter me in the draw!

    Thanks!

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  85. Please enter me into the drawing! It sounds beautiful everywhere I've read about it. You have my mouth watering with your review! Beautifully written, and interesting to boot.

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