dimanche 2 octobre 2011

Michel Almairac on Bottega Veneta: "I’d been looking for that leather smell for years."


(Pour la version française, cliquez ici.)

Leather seemed like an obvious choice for Bottega Veneta, best known for its luxurious handbags. But Michel Almairac says is that it wasn’t mentioned in the brief. Simply, he’d just found the leather accord he’d been dreaming of. The seasoned Grasse-born perfumer knew that leather was a tricky note to offer up for a mainstream product, as leather scents tend to be quite divisive. But that’s what he wanted to work on, and that’s what Tomas Maier picked. The creative director’s eyes lit up when he smelled Almairac’s submission, the perfumer tells the group of fashion and perfume bloggers (including the delectable Katie Puckrick – hi Katie!) invited by Bottega Veneta.

As we sniff a blotter dipped in the leather accord, Almairac explains it sprang from the combination of a brand-new synthetic with a natural material he knew well. But he won’t say what’s in it.
I’m frowning so hard over my blotter that Almairac interrupts himself to ask me whether I disagree with him whatever he’s saying at that point. The fashion bloggers mainly want to know whether he had a specific type of woman in mind when he composed the scent, and I suspect he’d rather change the subject – he’s not even pretending he had. That’s not how perfumers work. Though I’d love to take the talk into geekier territory, at that point I’m still trying to figure out what’s in that accord. I’m getting a distinct osmanthus effect – apricot jam, violet, suede – along with rather surprising, tingling iodic aspect I associate with oak moss or its derivatives such as Evernyl. Later, over the finger-food lunch, Almairac confirms my impressions, though without telling me whether I’m right about the materials. There is an iodic aspect, he says, because to him, ports smell of leather, and he wanted to bring that out. It’s not the scent’s main story but it does introduce an intriguing twist.

If that soft-as-apricot-skin leather accord is not entirely unfamiliar, it is because Almairac has already worked on a violet-leather note in Armani Privé’s Cuir Améthyste. There’s no reason why a perfumer shouldn’t revisit an idea when he thinks he can do it better. This time, Almairac thinks he’s clinched it, so he won’t reuse it: the leather accord is Bottega Veneta’s alone.
But doing straight-up leather, he explains, would have taken the product too far into niche territory, so Almairac threaded the accord, intrecciato-style (the braided-leather technique for which the house’s craftsmen are justly renowned) into a chypre with a floral heart: the leather's apricot facets, and an added plum note, tug it towards the fruity chypre genre: this is nothing if not a perfectly consistent structure, as tightly-woven and supple as a Bottega Veneta bag. Looks easy, but it's got decades of work behind it.

The chypre family has been making a striking come-back on the market: 25% of the products launched in 2010 come under that category, against 2% in 2000. Nevertheless, it’s a gutsy choice for a nascent line, and a perfect match for Tomas Maier’s confidently adult RTW collections (like Lanvin’s Albert Elbaz, you get the feeling Maier has real women with real lives in mind when he designs.)

Smelled on its own, the chypre accord itself is slightly offbeat, namely because it features a tweaked bergamot – more candied than the usual variety. Almairac explains that Robertet, where he has been working since 1998, produces “fractions”, i.e. “couture” natural products in which certain molecules are removed to perfumers’ specifications. The patchouli was shorn of its moldy, camphoraceous facets; the green facets of the jasmine sambac were toned down.
The scent also features pink pepper, which has become a star ingredient in the last couple of years because of its new extraction method with CO2: in this form, it gives off almost incense-like facets, and produces an interesting vibrancy in the top notes against the candied bergamot. The pink pepper fizz pulls up a burst of leather glazed in burnt sugar, as though the apricot jam has stuck a bit at the bottom of the pan. The slight bitterness of the leather accord and oakmoss keep the sweetness in firm check. And if you nose-squint a little to catch the scent’s lactonic/floral heart, it’s not entirely unrelated to another reworking of the fruity chypre family, Michel Almeirac’s Gucci Rush, with the aldehydic neon glare switched off.

The result is both facetted and streamlined – Almairac favours short formulas, which he says are actually trickier to pull off because it’s easier to drown technical flaws in longer ones. It’s got impeccable balance and great volume, with plum dominating the sillage, but is sufficiently low-key to wear in professional settings.
Bottega Veneta eau de parfum makes for an elegant, more widely available alternative to niche offerings like Serge Lutens Daim Blond or to Almairac’s own, costlier Armani Privé Cuir Améthyste. Clearly, Coty Prestige, a division that also handles the Chloé and Balenciaga accounts, is showing a deft hand in putting out luxury mainstream fragrances with just enough of an edge to make them interesting for hardcore perfume lovers as well as for civilians.
Now if they could only be convinced of putting out a coffret of François Coty’s classics…


The dark young Diana featured in Bruce Weber’s ad is Nine d’Urso (as in “Nina”, pronounced “Neen”), the daughter of the peerless Inès de la Fressange and the late Luigi d’Urso.

27 commentaires:

  1. Easily the most impressive mainstream launch this season - and actually body products to match as well, something I really miss with the other great chypres. My all time favourites are all leather chypres, but many are too demanding to wear in my shared office with my colleague who only likes Jo Malone... but what is great about Bottega is that it is a leather chypre I can wear in the office. Did you manage to test the extrait yet? I'm seriously thinking of splurging on a bottle since I'm using the EDP at a fast rate!

    I heard Coty did reissue some of the classics - I think Luca Turin tested them and said they were fantastic but never released commercially. And they were apparently IFRA compliant. Hopefully Coty are listening and are going to raise the game..!

    RépondreSupprimer
  2. No, I haven't tested the extrait, it wasn't at the presentation...
    Coty did reissue the classics for their 100th anniversary. I was given the Rose Jacqueminot by my editor (who'd published the book on Coty). But being IFRA-compliant in 2004 does not ensure compliance in 2011! That said, I did tell the Coty team that there would certainly be a lot of interest for the product...

    RépondreSupprimer
  3. Thank you for this informative review. BV has been my favorite so far of the mainstream launches this year, and it sounds like I'm not alone. I was also curious as to whether it had violet in it (which seems to be very popular right now), so I'm glad to hear you confirm that it does.

    RépondreSupprimer
  4. Heh. "Nose-squint."

    I'm very intrigued by this, although worried about the violet,.

    RépondreSupprimer
  5. I used to work for Coty mid 2000 and alltough it's really not done to talk about a company that once payed your wages I always and still get upset when I think about the way they milked every contemparary artist's name and threw another ghastly "odeur" on the market. The presentation of a new scent was always accompanied by lots of "pooha" and then finally you got to smell the darn thing and were supposed to be over the top with enthousiasm. It got to the point that I wad ashamed to tell I was working for them.In the end I left the cosmetic industry all togehter (but stayed a fume- fanatic).
    Wish there had been more blogs around like yours to console me and confirm I wasn't completly mad in feeling embarassed about their launches at that point in time.
    Hope the tables turn and they realise that Francois Coty is a name to be proud of! The Bottega sounds pretty good, I'll give it a try soon!

    Malfait

    RépondreSupprimer
  6. Anotherperfumeblog, there is definitely a violet effect and you're right, the note has been making a huge comeback in a lot of fragrance types (green, "cosmetic", leather...). Maybe it's the follow-up to the huge iris influx? Anyway, BV is also my favourite in the mainstream launches so far, but then I'm far from having smelled everything!

    RépondreSupprimer
  7. Amy, it's always the same thing, when you don't like a note it'll reach out and throttle you, but in BV, the violet is more of a part of that osmanthus/suede effect that an actual star player.

    RépondreSupprimer
  8. Malfait, sorry to hear about your disheartening work experience... Big corporations can be tough on the soul. But I really do think that between Chloé, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta there are good products coming out now, and I hope your memories won't keep you from enjoying BV!

    RépondreSupprimer
  9. I just got to try this today, and I'm really delighted. Definitely one of the best mainstream launches I've smelled. For me, this would fill the same spot as Kelly Caleche. They are not at all the same in terms of notes, but they are both smooth, work-friendly leather scents that garner a lot of compliments. Nothing particularly edgy, but so well done, really a delight to wear. Can't believe Coty let this one out of the box!
    Thanks for the excellent review and backstory.
    -Marla

    RépondreSupprimer
  10. I've been back and forth on this between reviews and advice from perfumistas whose tastes I share, and I think your wonderful description and review have pushed me over the edge! I'm going to have to try this.

    Donna

    RépondreSupprimer
  11. Marla, you know, I never really managed to read leather from Kelly Calèche... In BV the note is more obvious to me. For the rest, I can only agree with you, it's quite a delight to wear.

    RépondreSupprimer
  12. I'm afraid I register the plum rather strongly, and so find BV a bit too cloying. The waft from the skin is fine, but close up, the effect is a bit sweet. It is lovely work tho'; moderate in price and, as has been noted, comes with matching products. I think it will be stayer.

    Chanel's 31 Rue Cambon is a different fragrance but somehow BV reminded me of it. Both tick all the boxes for elegance, refinement and restraint. Fortunately BV ticks the '30 ml' box too!

    RépondreSupprimer
  13. Anne-Marie, I hadn't thought of the 31 rue Cambon connection, but of course it's another contemporary interpretation of the fruity chypre idea, with a jasmine note (and the pepper might create a slightly leathery effect).

    RépondreSupprimer
  14. I didn't care for this one at all, it had a plasticky note on me... it did actually remind me a bit of Kelly Calèche which I also didn't like... my leather tastes seem to be quite limited: pretty much I stick to Doblis, Cuir Ottoman and Cuir Mauresque.

    RépondreSupprimer
  15. Tara, sticking to Doblis is a rare privilege indeed! It's true that BV and Kelly Calèche play on the leather-like facets of ionones, in that they are similar, though the Hermès has a water-soaked petals effect to me.

    RépondreSupprimer
  16. Wow, I can't wait to smell this. Leather from a leather-work company? Color me impressed. Plus, it doesn't hurt that I've been secretly lusting over a Bottega Veneta duffel for years....

    May I just say, your writing continues to impress me. I missed your updates during your hiatus. I can't wait to read your book. :3

    RépondreSupprimer
  17. Eric, I'd be lusting over a BV bag if I allowed myself to, but that's just be hurting myself. And thank you for your kind words about my writing.

    RépondreSupprimer
  18. I just tried this and was quite impressed. Am I the only one who gets a distinct orris note? It's probably the leather accord which does the trick...

    RépondreSupprimer
  19. Kristina, yes, you're absolutely right, there is an orris effect, but as it is not claimed in the notes list, it's probably conjured by the ionones...

    RépondreSupprimer
  20. Enjoyed reading your review--echoing Eric above, you are the best writer of all the blogs I read ;)No pressure, but are you allowed to update us on when your book is expected to be out?

    Regarding BV: Plotting when I can make time to drive to Philadelphia to check it out at the Neiman Marcus. I _can_ order it online here in the US --from them or sister store Bergdorf Goodman's, but I havne't yet tried "MMM Untitled" and thought I could sniff both at the same time. And I'm trying to restrain myself from $100+ bottle purchases unsniffed!

    RépondreSupprimer
  21. Ggs, thank you. I'm still waiting for my editor's green light to make the official announcement about my book. As they're working on the cover, it's early days yet.
    And I agree it's wise to actually smell and test before buying! And more fun too...

    RépondreSupprimer
  22. The "delectable" Katie Puckrik checking in, Denyse! Takes one to know one, milady. Very much enjoyed your elegant summation of the BV day and your clarity in the ingredients analysis. A beautiful perfume, and the event was a great excuse to finally meet!

    RépondreSupprimer
  23. Hey Katie! Meeting you at last, and unexpectedly, greatly added to the fun of the event. I'll be looking forward to your take on it, and to seeing you when our paths cross again!

    RépondreSupprimer
  24. déjà-vu (senti?)!

    To be fair, I've already smelled BV in the niche world, not in the mainstream - I suppose it takes some kind of guts to try to lure the fruitchouli-fan base into wearing leather gloves. But still.

    Just like the Prada Candy - even if the execution were particularly brilliant, it's an execution of a trite idea.
    My nose says: been there-done that already.

    RépondreSupprimer
  25. Zazie, to be sure, this is no revolution. But when you look at the mainstream, you find that almost no niche ideas ever really cross over. Not to mention that outside the online community who order samples and swap decants, the overwhelming majority of the population has scant access to niche if only for geographical reasons.
    So I'd say it's a good thing that a mainstream product ventures out of the most popular styles, and isn't a clone of everything else on the market. Especially when it's so well translated into the mainstream idiom.
    In the same way, I find Candy quite brilliant in its re-interpretation of the sugary gourmand: given a choice, I'd much rather smell that in public transportation that Pink Sugar and its ilk.

    RépondreSupprimer
  26. Ce commentaire a été supprimé par un administrateur du blog.

    RépondreSupprimer