While the perfume blogosphere is all atwitter with Bertrand Duchaufour’s new Havana Vanille (for reviews, click here, here, here and here), let us pause for a moment in remembrance of Vanilia, which will be phased out of L’Artisan Parfumeur’s line-up as soon as the new one hits the shelves.
Dare I say it? I’ve never been a fan of any vanilla-centered scent, except Hermessence Vanille Galante, admittedly more of a lily-ylang than a straight-up vanilla. But I seem to be the exception, judging from the high number of them listed in the Basenotes directory, from cheap mall brands to high-end niche houses. Vanilla is the default choice in ice-cream flavors and label for whatever is standard and no-frills – from investment funds to sexual practices; a comfort blanket, non-controversial sillage when times get rough. But apart from the fact that I don’t aspire to compete with cupcakes, vanilla just seems too… simple.
If Mûre et Musc anticipated both the berry and musk trends, Vanilia was over a decade ahead of its time in the über-gourmand stakes. Its overdose of “candy floss” material (aka ethyl maltol) gives the starring vanilla the sweet, crunchy quality of the white shell surrounding sugared almonds (without the almond).
But Vanilia isn’t quite as plain as it would seem, and the candy accord is wedged between the smoky woodiness of vanilla in the opening notes and the suntan lotion, salicylic shimmer that links it to ylang-ylang and lily (which would later form the structure of Serge Lutens Un Lys and Hermès Vanille Galante). The vanilla candy melody, the throb of wood smoke and the subtly spicy ylang harmony sing a pop ditty as sweet and good-natured as Debbie Harry’s tribute to girl groups in Denis, Denis.
If you’re a fan, stock up while you can.
Image: "She would sneak licks of icing before blowing out the candles on her birthday cake" by Marcia Resnick (1978), sourced from the photographer Timothy Archibald's blog.
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Wow! I'm not a huge fan of Vanilia, but I'm surprised to hear they are phasing it out. As you say, it was a really prescient fragrance... Now I'm in the awkward position of having decide whether to stock up, just in the interest of preserving a little history.
RépondreSupprimerHi Denyse, I loved your change in perspective with respect to the much buzzed havana vanille launch.
RépondreSupprimerIt is always sad when fragrances are discontinued, even though I'm not a vanilla fan myself - I'm definetly camping on the "vade retro" vanilla side!!(I would be very curious to try vanilla 44, though).
I can imagine the impression of betrayal felt by a loyal customer when their fragrance just stops to exist.
Well, this make perfumes "mortal", in a certain sense... and maybe even more attaching....
I didn't realise they were phasing this out, I haven't tried the new scent yet (I know I know) but it sounds like they are sufficiently different and I thought this one had quite a devoted following. It's a shame, I thought it was a very nice go to scent.
RépondreSupprimerJarvis, it's a pity, isn't it? I was thinking along the same lines, but I think a couple of samples will suffice, just for reference purposes.
RépondreSupprimerZazie, at least L'Artisan are forthcoming about it. And I suppose it wasn't selling all that well if they're discontinuing it. But
RépondreSupprimerthis is such a happy, insouciant scent it almost feels cruel (like putting down a healthy pet, you know?)
Rose, you're lucky at least to have the possibility of smelling the new one. It's not in Paris shops yet, not even under the counter, which is a little shocking considering the brand's French.
RépondreSupprimerI never thought I'd have the occasion to wear Vanilia (it requires specific occasions, doesn't it?), but now I have to stop at Barney's to try it again and see if I should buy it anyway. It can always go to my daughter when she gets older. Thanks for keeping us up-to-date!
RépondreSupprimerMy mom once got very upset at the rest of us for making fun of her liking vanilla ice cream. "Vanilla IS a flavor, you know," she pout lectured. She was right, of course.
RépondreSupprimerWhen vanilla appears in perfume, I tend to think of that perfume then as an "effect" perfume, and not a perfume, per se. But I realize I am not being fair. Heck, if you can count frankincense, pine resin, musk gland secretions, whale barf, lavender essential oil, and flower oils all as fair game, why not vanilla? :)
That said, the specific issue of the phasing out of Vanilia. L'Artisan is going to have some problems fairly gauging product movement if their current boutique shut down/unknowledgeable sales person trend continues. I just last week asked the rep at a nearby Barney's about Havana Vanille--my mistake, I forgot it wasn't yet officially released--but she hadn't even heard of it. Not good. She did ask if I perhaps I meant Vanilia. I'm guessing she wouldn't know that it is in danger of disappearing....
Guess I'd better get back there and sniff the Vanilia. Maybe I'll decide it is a "flavor" worthy of consideration...at least worthy of getting as a gift for my mom.
Carla, I imagine a young girl would love Vanilia, and I can think of a lot worse vanilla-centered scents to indulge in... As they go, this one is lovely and not cloying.
RépondreSupprimerScentScelf: actually, I love a good vanilla flavor... But the "philosophy" of vanilla as a scent is quite different from, say, incense. That said, I tend not to be too interested in "soli-notes" anyway, whatever they are.
RépondreSupprimerRe: L'Artisan, there are still several boutiques in Paris though some have been shut down here too. But it's a pity that their S.A.s overseas aren't up to scratch. The ones I spoke to here were trained by Stéphanie Bakouche (who composed Invasions Barbares for MDCI).
Denyse, what a smart assessment. I will miss Vanilia, too: that candyfloss note with the cold-cream ylang and an especially lovely sandalwood note really made the scent exceptional.
RépondreSupprimerI've had a sniff of the Havana Vanille and it's very well-done. The tobacco is the scent of golden, dried leaf and it melts beautifully into the dry, smoky vanilla bean.
I think there is room for both vanillas in the l'Artisan line, so it's a shame that Vanilia has to go!
Wow, I'm shocked to see this news here, especially since it hasn't shown up anywhere else. That slightly unloved bought-used-on-impulse bottle in my cupboard just got a whole lot more interesting.
RépondreSupprimerHi Denyse! You really make me want to try both of these Vanilles, and I am SO not Vanilla myself. I must say I think that they really want to exorcise all vestiges of Jean La Porte from their wares. Too too bad because in his mid-career let's say, his work was very compelling and happened to guage "the moment" perfectly, as you say about his Vanillia scent. Here in LA (and in much of fashion I see in mags) since we are reliving the 70's and now certain parts of the 80's continually, his ex-scentsibility should be right on the money! How shortsighted and what a shame!
RépondreSupprimerRobin, I agree, from what I've read about Havana Vanille they're totally different vibes. Shame, that, even though I probably would never buy Vanilia, but there's no arguing it's a fine fragrance.
RépondreSupprimerAlyssa, see? Instant vintage!
RépondreSupprimerWendy, you may be right, although I very much doubt it's Duchaufour's idea. Laporte's Mûre et Musc is still the brand's best-seller.
RépondreSupprimerAs for the 70s revival, I think we owe much of the patchouli wave to it.
I was at a perfume event here in LA and one of the L'Artisan partners was there and I talked to hi about the wonderful old La Porte scents and his amazing legacy, and he very politely did one of those "we're looking toward the future" kinds of things. Basically he completely dismissed my subject of conversation, while generously inviting me to visit in Paris at the same time, a true Modern European Businessman, I suppose A L'Americain!
RépondreSupprimerWendy: no memory. No culture. Look for more suppressions in the line, I guess. Except for Mûre et Musc.
RépondreSupprimerSo true, welcome to America!
RépondreSupprimerPS: You do still live in a culture where there is a strong sense of culture and past in SO many other things. Sadly, this era of the "New (read American Style) Businessman" or Business Model is moving into one of the areas we really care about, domage!
Wendy, that era has come for French perfumery quite some years ago, alas...
RépondreSupprimerI'm catching up on my back reading -- I had NO IDEA they were discontinuing this!! I'm a little shocked, actually -- I'd have guessed it is one of their big sellers. Hm.
RépondreSupprimerMarch: Yup. This brand ain't big enough for two vanillas, apparently.
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