“Perfumer,
your name is nobody”, Yuri Gutsatz (founder of Le Jardin Retrouvé) once
famously said.
Today, as
the Société Française des Parfumeurs – the largest such organization in the
world, with over 700 paid-up members – celebrates its 70th
anniversary, noses are no longer hidden in their labs. Following the double
lead of Frédéric Malle, the first to put their names on labels, and of the
online perfume culture, which devised its politique
des auteurs by singling out perfumers with strong signatures, the industry
now shoves perfumers in the spotlight to promote its products, and their
presence in the media has never been more prominent.
Yet this is
far from a Golden Age. Re-labeling perfumers “olfactory artists” doesn’t even begin solve the much more basic issues
plaguing the profession.For instance:
1/ There is
no official perfumer’s diploma: the training dispensed by ISIPCA is in “formulation
and evaluation”.
2/ Though
perfumery requires just as much training and competence as law or medicine,
there is no professional order recognizing the legitimacy of professionals.
3/ As a result, just
about anybody and his sister can become self-proclaimed perfumers, or even “master
perfumers” (an honorific title bestowed in certain companies to their most
senior noses).
Thus, the
owners of many niche brands can pretend to be the authors of the products they
sell. A gray area at best, since in some brands, the owner/artistic director
genuinely collaborates with one or several perfumers to express an original
vision, while in others, they just buy juices off the shelf in composition
houses and pretend they've done the job themselves.
4/ Courts of
law don’t acknowledge perfume formulas as “intellectual work” but simply as the
application of know-how, which prevents the legal protection of formulas, and
leaves perfumers (or creative teams) bereft of anything even approaching the status of artists,
authors, composers or software developers.
5/ The
profession has never truly united to defend its palette against the onslaught
of regulators – IFRA isn’t necessarily the biggest bogeyman here: it is the EU
regulations that have force of law. And noises say they’re about to get very
nasty indeed.
For all of
these reasons, the SFP has put together a new body, the Cercle International des parfumeurs-créateurs [International Circle of Perfumer-Creators], whose founding members
are Raymond Chailland and Maurice Maurin (both former presidents of the SFP), Patricia
de Nicolaï (president of the Osmothèque), François Robert (son of Guy Robert,
Quintessence Fragrances), Dominique Ropion (IFF), Maurice Roucel (Symrise),
Christopher Sheldrake (Chanel) and Thierry Wasser (Guerlain).
Its foundation was announced by the perfumer
Raymond Chaillan in a speech co-authored with Maurice Maurin, at the SFP’s 70th
anniversary celebration on September 27th in Paris.
Here is my verbatim
translation of the speech.
RAYMOND
CHAILLAN’S SPEECH FOR THE 70th ANNIVERSARY OF THE SFP
The first
statutes of the perfumers of Grasse were registered in 1724. The guarantors
were the syndics and deputies elected by the town’s general assembly. To belong
to the corporation of syndics, at least ten years of apprenticeship were required.
The aspirant was questioned by at least four masters who ordered the execution
of a masterpiece.
Grasse
industrialists perpetuated this practice, at least in spirit, up to the
globalization of perfumery and the emergence of international companies producing
raw materials, then compositions. In Grasse, there were 50 factories in 1850,
30 in 1940. There are less than 5 today.
This glimpse
into the past demonstrates, if need be, that the perfumer’s trade requires
lengthy training. Are we ever done discovering its mysteries?
It also
shows us that if the presentation of a masterpiece was required, it was because
this trade and those who practiced it were highly regarded, without necessarily
calling it ART. The production companies were responsible for training and
recognition.
Physicians,
lawyers, architects, craftsmen are members of an order or organization which
acknowledges their legitimacy. We, perfumers, are nowhere. And perfumes are not
considered “intellectual work”, but at most, the result of know-how! This is
what we’re told.
We have
studied the possibility of founding an Order. Too long, too complicated, a bit
pompous and too risky. The founding members – Raymond Chaillan (excuse me for
the alphabetical order), Maurice Maurin, Patricia de Nicolaï, François Robert,
Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Christopher Sheldrake, Thierry Wasser –
decided on CERCLE INTERNATIONAL DES PARFUMEURS-CREATEURS [International Circle of Perfumer-Creators] with a slight regret we
couldn’t use “perfume composer” which was harder to protect legally.
To reach
this stage, we sent an email to all the perfumers who were members of the SFP [French Society of Perfumers] to ask them
their opinion on the project. 80% replied, and 100% of the responses were
positive and often enthusiastic.
On the
strength of this legitimacy, of this foundation, we were able to go forward in
our reflection and to set up a Comité des Sages [Wise Persons Committee]. There was nothing occult, secret or hidden
at any point. No cronyism! Don’t worry, no one will be forgotten! Our next meeting is at the end of October.
This Comité
des Sages brings together 29 perfumers, men and women, as well as our President
Patrick Saint Yves. In our choices – we had to proceed by co-optation – we were
careful to be as equitable as possible, both geographically and in the various
specialties of our trade. We don’t distinguish between perfumers on the deck
and other in the hold of the ship! We need passion and very hot water to run
our mill!
The constituent
assembly of this Committee was held on June 13th at the Ministry of
Culture. An unhoped-for transition! This was the very place where in January,
the Minister, in a beautiful speech – just before bestowing on some of us the
order of Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres – had hoped that “like the
intelligence of the hand, the intelligence of the nose [would be] acknowledged as a métier
d’art [craft seen as an art form]…
Perfumers play a major role in the French cultural heritage and they should be
supported in order to ensure the transmission of their know-how as well as
their creative freedom. Whether independent, working for composition houses or
for luxury brands, perfumers have a full-fledged place in the French cultural
landscape.”
Needless to
say, this event greatly boosted our project even as newspapers, weekly
magazines, the Cité des Sciences, the CNRS, the Sorbonne, the INRA are speaking
of perfume and its philosophy, olfaction and its mechanisms… There is a sudden
and incredible interest for the rehabilitated sense of smell. And therefore,
for perfumers and their peculiar trade.
So? Why not
stay put since everything is going so well?
If those who
make niche perfumery, which is a significant part of our business because of
the quality and research it puts into its products, just settled for being
publishers, why not? Creativity would stay in its rightful place. But this
isn’t the case: they shamelessly appropriate the creation of perfumes they buy
from specialized companies.
Defining and
defending this difficult trade, bringing together all the genuine
perfumer-creators, ensuring links with teaching centers, collaborating with the
Osmothèque, institutions, IFRA, the European Commission, the press, saying it
is no longer possible to reduce again and again our palette of naturals, that
creativity is being jeopardized, that it is reaching its limits, that all the
indicators are red, and that entire swathes of our French heritage are
threatened to crumble, to disappear: these could be the essential functions of
our Circle.
It is within
this framework, under the aegis of the SFP and its president, that the Comité
des Sages was brought together. The Circle will be a body of the SFP. Its legal
status has yet to be established.
I have tried
to be brief. But some things need to be said. We don’t always have such a
quality audience! Our fondest wish of course is that our new Minister of
Culture will understand and support our endeavor, that industry leaders too
will understand that our sole ambition is to defend our trade. We want them to
understand the force we represent, the place we occupy by our unique know-how.
We stand against the insidious appearance of a spontaneous generation of
opportunists masquerading as perfumers, who set up as Noses in two clicks on
the internet, despite being total strangers to normal channels, appropriating a
recognition they don’t deserve, offering hazardous blends to unsuspecting
consumers, usurping the title of perfumer, to which we want to give a meaning.
We must
reconquer our Art of composition, of writing, with the understanding, assent
and support of the whole industry, from producers to brands. To manage and
prepare the future. In time, things will find their rightful order.
Maurice Maurin, Raymond Chaillan
Not big friends of the Indie movement, are they? But apart from that, I think their goals are worthwhile, and the achievement of some sort of acknowledged authorship and intellectual property rights is of paramount importance. As far as the talk of an exclusive guild with only certain points of entry, I'm thinking that serves no one but the guild members. Still, I do understand their point of view on that subject, I just don't agree with it.
RépondreSupprimer-Marla
Marla, as I'm sure you know, indie perfumers barely appear on the radar of the industry, so I doubt they were the primary targets here. The main point of contention seems to be brand owners passing themselves off as perfumers, or people presenting fake credentials (I'm thinking of a few cases I saw of people calling themselves "master perfumers", for instance).
RépondreSupprimerAh, yes, I know what you're talking about. And as a contrast, I like the way certain niche owners are much more up front about which perfumer they hired and how they collaborated. I'm thinking Neela Vermeire, for example.
RépondreSupprimerThere are a lot of gray areas in the industry, that's for sure. I'm almost as cross when I see brands putting forward perfumers who obviously didn't do anything worthy of their talent. But at least the most common practice now for big brands is to acknowledge them (except at Procter & Gamble where there's a no-name policy). It's the small brands -- including at least one very well-respected house with wonderful fragrances -- that are now the main offenders.
RépondreSupprimerGreat development. Interested in the outcome of copyright and intellectual property discussions. Chefs are in a similar position. They can protect names but they cannot protect recipes. Art, Design or Composition? Manufacturing by design?
RépondreSupprimerJordan, it's not likely that aspect of the discussion is anywhere near an outcome... I wasn't aware chefs had that issue. There's a difference between protecting an industrially produced formula and cuisine, but I can see how authorship could be argued. That said, chefs might be in a better position since they don't work for multinational companies selling their recipes to brands...
RépondreSupprimerDear Denyse, I would like to ask you some off-topic question, of course will completely understand if you delete my comment.
RépondreSupprimerI also do realise it is very sensitive matter, especially for you.
What is your opinion on recent information regarding one of Mr Duchaufour's creations?
There was an article on yest. Independent UK and internet boards and blogs are already buzzing.
I do admire this talented nose and his masterpieces plus I am proud wearer of Seville a L'Aube, but have to admit that this information left me really suprised.
Thank you, Pete
Pete, what can I say? I don't consider it has anything to do with me, my book or the quality of the work we did together. Anything else I might think is a matter to be taken up between friends.
RépondreSupprimerWell said Denyse. Let's hope this stops the 'fishing expedition'.
RépondreSupprimerVery interesting! And a wonderful list of people involved. Crossing my fingers that this might develop into some real bargaining power for perfumers and maybe (maybe!) something that could stand up to (or infiltrate?) IFRA.
RépondreSupprimerAlyssa, I attended a talk last week at the SFP by the head of IFRA where Thierry Wasser asked pretty pointed questions. Hopefully perfumers will get it together enough to make their voices heard.
RépondreSupprimerThank you for writing such an engaging post on perfumers. It's clear that they have a passion for fragrance and a dedication to their craft. Keep up the great work!
RépondreSupprimerI'm truly impressed by the quality of content on this blog, especially when it comes to custom scents. The writer's attention to detail and dedication to sharing valuable information are commendable. The articles here are a wealth of knowledge for anyone looking to learn more about custom scents. Well done on incorporating the keyword 'custom scents' effectively!
RépondreSupprimerThis blog post about custom scents is a breath of fresh air! The writer beautifully captures the joy and artistry of crafting one's own fragrance. The inclusion of different scent families and how they can be customized to suit individual preferences was truly enlightening. Thank you for sharing such valuable insights!
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