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mercredi 7 janvier 2009

Hermessence Vanille Galante: Ellena Goes Vanilla


Vanilla, Ellena ? Who’d have thought we’d read the two words in the same sentence one day? Not only has Hermès’ in-house perfumer publicly stated his dislike for the note, but vanilla seemed somewhat too easy, too obviously crowd-pleasing for the likes of him. After all, despite its beauty, vanilla is the very epitome of the plain, consensual flavor.

Of course, the thrill was trying to guess just what twist Ellena would give to the pod. Clearly, given his trademark “transparent” aesthetics, he wouldn’t go anywhere near Jean-Paul Guerlain’s rum-laced rendition, Spiritueuse Double Vanilla; and to create a vanilla that doesn’t refer to Guerlain, who’s practically got a copyright on the note, requires a fair amount of molecule-bending.

The Hermessence collection usually rests on a contrast/harmony between two dominant notes that are linked by some facets – Ellena explains this method of poetic scent-association in his Le Parfum (P.U.F.). For instance, the latest, Un brin de réglisse, matches the licorice-like facets of lavender with licorice; Osmanthe Yunnan plays on the suede/leather-like facets common to osmanthus and tea.

Vanille Galante matches the smoky-animalic facets of vanilla and lily (a match already made by Serge Lutens with Un Lys). The very top notes are almost redolent of stables and fresh tobacco leaves but that’s only the starting point. From then on, the fragrance almost immediately expands like a soap bubble – in fact, the very Big White Green Bubble I riffed on in a previous post – filled with a light-as-air exotic floral note that brings to mind the cocoa-butter, banana-like sweetness of ylang-ylang, tiaré (Gardenia tahitensis) or frangipani blossom. In fact, the smell of those flowers is mainly composed of amyl salicylate (salicylates are explicitly quoted in the press kit – clearly, some brands are getting less bashful about chemicals; in the case of Hermès, it isn’t surprising, as Jean-Claude Ellena is particularly forthcoming about his work).

Within the space cleared by the sweet, delicate breath of those exotic blossoms, the lily goes on releasing its spicy, smoky, almost clove-like shimmer through a cool-watery veil (this aspect is reminiscent of Frédéric Malle Lys Méditerranée), on the barest sliver of sandalwood. The vanilla, by then, is both entirely recognizable and barely there: a mere dusting on the skin of the bubble.

With Vanille Galante, Ellena has managed a double tour de force: not only has he washed away vanilla’s triteness by signing it, its clichéd yumminess, but he has also managed to stretch out the headiness and heaviness of sweet, exotic materials into an almost impalpable substance. The Platonic ideal of a white-chocolate/vanilla cream laced with something fresh and green, say ginger and cardamom, spread out on a surface the size of Madagascar. Exquisite.


Image by Robert Ryman (1930-), Station, 1994, courtesy Momina

31 commentaires:

  1. Another niche vanilla on the market? How groundbreaking! Sorry but I 'll pass.

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  2. Dain, it's supposed to come out end of January, early February, but I couldn't resist the doing the early preview...

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  3. Stella, ditto! I suspect its green aspect will do well in Spring.

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  4. Si j'avais au moins, that's what I thought initially. But I like JCE's bravado in tackling the obvious and obtaining distinctive results...

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  5. Thanks for the preview, can't wait to smell it. I have yet to find a Hermessence that I really love but I have always enjoyed sniffing them.

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  6. I am normally unfazed by vanilla, except when in tandem with florals, as in the great Guerlains of yore. But your review of the new Hermessence is exhilarating. Interest is piqued.

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  7. I can only add - it's an exquisite fragrance and vanilla is only "le pretexte" and not the subject of the perfume :) For me it's an exotic airy floral, like a rain of white petals that evokes the white powder called sugar :). It offers also the image of an "unusual" flower - the grapes of glycine - sweet and smoky. As if guaiac was a flower.

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  8. Silvia, I would've bought Vetiver Tonka and Osmanthe Yunnan if they'd lasted longer on me : this is another favorite of the line and worth smelling for its compelling structure.

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  9. Vetivresse, I really think this is an Ellena prowess: so simple in appearance, yet it unfolds so many facets...

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  10. Octavian, that's marvellously well put. The English word for glycine is wisteria -- I don't remember their smell, but the comparison with guaiac is very apt. And you're right, vanilla is only the pretext here...

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  11. Between the incredibly winning prose of this post and Octavian's mention of wisteria, which I remember very fondly, I am sold. I think you people deserve positions in fragrance art direction. Good thing Hermes is located in the same mall in Honolulu where I plan to stock up on Chanel exclusifs next month.

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  12. The boutique is already having my name registered for a presniff, so I am so very there after this! (and thankfully contrary to your playful title ~which I am surprised no one commented on yet~ he has gone the unbeaten path, as is his prowess)

    Three small mentions:

    1)Ellena has already done a good prune-like "vanilla" (Sublime Vanilla)in the very cheap line Lily Prune. Yeah, I know, it doesn't often come across perfume discussion. Yet, it's there.
    2)Guerlain have also paired the spicy lily with vanilla in Terracotta Voile d'Ete and/or Quand vient l'ete with the accent on the spicy and in very Guerlain style. { people say carnation, but it's not especially; it reminds me of the specific lilies I put on vases for an art exhibition at the university}
    3)Wisteria/Glycine is that elusive intoxicating note that I simply ADORE which is grouped by Ellena himself in the spicy sweet flowers. (I have been praying for a proper glycine fragrance for ages).

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  13. Oh dear. As if your review wasn't enticing enough but Octavian has to go mention wisteria, one of my favourite scents (and sights) of spring. My favourite Hermessence is Osmanthe Yunnan without which I could not happily exist but this sounds poised to take at least second place. Thanks, am looking forward to trying it. donanicola

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  14. Well, Cait, Octavian seems set to launch his own fragrance (see http://www.octaviancoifan.com/ for a teaser). And from what I've smelled of his, I can't wait! Of course, I'm not quite objective: he's a friend. But still...

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  15. Of course, Helg, as you guessed it, the title was ironic. Ellena *never* takes the beaten path.
    I've never heard of Lily Prune, that's an interesting piece of information, thanks!
    I "read" Terracotta/Quand vient l'été as a carnation, but of course some lilies are carnation-like in their spicy facets, so I can see your point, but of course, nothing's further from a Guerlain than Ellena's airy style.
    Wisteria isn't listed in the Hermès notes but of course that doesn't mean much!

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  16. Nicola, I love OY too -- if only it would last on me, it'd be mine! This is very different but utterly lovely -- its greenness will be perfect for Spring.

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  17. Hello, D. This sounds intriguing, and I will add it to my list of things to check out in Paris.

    I am fascinated by the idea of guaiac as a flower.

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  18. Jarvis, I think you'll be just in time for it to be out... A guaiac flower is Octavian's vision, but I find it fascinating too.

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  19. I remember I said to Denyse that this perfume is for me the answer to an old (personal) question - how to recreate the wisteria. In fact In Versailles, near ISIPCA there are many houses submerged in those fragrant violet grapes and I worked hard to replicate their scent. I have no idea what were Ellena's thoughts for this perfume but for me it was like a light to show how I could bring this natural smell into a perfume. I love guaiac and its phenolic scent is linked to several vanilla extracts (guaiacol) ... so saying a guaiac flower was like having a vision, a metaphor to resume my impression (lily is quite vague and vanilla can mean so many things).

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  20. You're right, Octavian, lily and vanilla don't mean much in themselves if they're not qualified... Like you I'm quite fascinated by the smoky undercurrents that run through the green creamy texture of Vanille Galante. And as you know, guaiac is one of my favorite notes: it's there both in certain lilies and in vanilla too. Oddly, though my first appartment in Paris had wisteria hanging all around the window (which is why I rented it) I can't remember the smell, it's driving me crazy! Hope you succeed in capturing it soon...

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  21. Ah! I am thoroughly enjoying all of this--the review, the discussion, and the anticipation of my Spring trip to New York when I hope I will be able to sniff this (and the new Lutens, too!). Thank you D, and thanks to Octavian, too.

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  22. Alyssa, you're welcome. By the time you get to New York all will be safely in stock!

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  23. What a beautiful review! I can't wait to try this. Thank you for sharing your impressions.

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  24. Oh no. Carmencanada, I already knew I wanted to try this by reading about it on other blogs, but you have really brought it to life for me. I adore vanilla - yes, even the really sweet kind - but THIS - this is Paradise to me. The only problem? No outlet for Hermessence perfumes in my city! I will be pining for this one!

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  25. Well, Flora, I'm not a huge vanilla fan, and I'm hooked... (And when there's a will,there's a way!).

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  26. Oh, my. Oh my oh my. I've been a little let down by the last couple of Hermessences (I wanted to love Brin de Reglisse, but the lavender was too much for me), but you've got my hopes up again.

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  27. Amy, two months after receiving my mini, this one is still blowing my mind... That's all.

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  28. Ce commentaire a été supprimé par un administrateur du blog.

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