All
of the Exclusives are named after some aspect of Coco Chanel’s story. Speaking
about Jersey, Jacques Polge explained
that the olfactory concept had come first: it was matched with a facet of the
Chanel saga later[i].
Were things done in the same order for Misia?
The PR team did say that for his first Chanel fragrance, Olivier Polge started
by seeking out an accord that had never been explored by the brand. Once he had
found it, the scent was christened after the woman who introduced Chanel to the
artistic avant-gardes of her time.
As
a muse, Misia Sert is almost too rich a source of inspiration: musing was her
raison d’être. Known in her heyday as “The Queen of Paris”, she was trained as
a pianist by the composer Gabriel Fauré, who considered her a prodigy, but
after getting married she played only for her friends, admirers and protégés –
i.e., most of the great writers, composers and painters from the Belle Époque
to the Jazz Age. Renoir, Vuillard, Vallotton, Bonnard and Toulouse-Lautrec painted
her; Marcel Proust based his Mme Verdurin on her. She inspired, nurtured or
sponsored Mallarmé, Cocteau, Ravel, Stravinsky, Picasso, Satie…
But
it is her patronage of the Ballets Russes, to which she introduced her friend
Gabrielle Chanel, which justifies the use of her name for the fragrance.
Olivier Polge states he had no intention of composing an olfactory portrait of the
lady: the scent is meant to evoke the heady blend rising from both the dress
circle and wings on the opening night of a Ballets Russes
production.
The
scent Polge the Younger decided to work on is built around the classic
violet/rose accord that came to be associated with lipstick in the early 20th
century. Introduced in fine fragrance by Coty’s 1904 La Rose Jacqueminot, its contemporary version was coined for Yves
Saint Laurent by Sophia Grojsman in Paris:
at this stage, it had already acquired its retro connotation, and stood for the
glamorous, old-school type of femininity YSL wanted to project (when you call
your fragrance “Paris”, you’re setting yourself up as an institution). Frédéric
Malle’s 2003 Lipstick Rose was the
first to use the accord ironically, between quote marks. Since then, it has
been featured as such in a number of scents such as Prada’s discontinued Rosetto or the more recent Guerlain French Kiss. When Nathalie Feisthauer
developed Putain des Palaces for État
Libre d’Orange[ii],
it was the “lipstick accord” she picked to evoke the “luxury hotel hooker” in
the Gainsbourg song that inspired the scent (given the brand and brief, the
result is predictably raunchier and rougher-edged than Misia).
It’s
interesting to note that when Olivier Polge came up with his own interpretation
of the lipstick accord, Chanel named it after a woman: a first for the
Exclusives. And what’s more, after a woman not
Coco: a first for the house. In perfumery, the lipstick accord may well
function as a metonymy of feminine artifice and seduction, those of the muse or
courtesan Gabrielle Chanel might have become, but didn’t.
Judging
from her pictures, Misia Sert’s ripe-peach beauty was better suited to Renoir
than to her friend’s petite robe noire.
Though her namesake fragrance is not meant as her portrait, it does reflect
some of that lushness. Misia is all
flushed cheeks and heated, powdered skin under swishing furs, with an undertow
of leather. The more you wear the fragrance, the more you feel that the lipstick
accord, bolstered by magisterial materials such as the rare Grasse rose grown
exclusively for Chanel, somehow burst through its quote marks to turn into a
stranger, richer blend. The violet, wine-dark. The rose, petals crushed with
raspberries. The balsamic base (tonka, benzoin), a sable-trimmed velvet wrap. Misia may well be the most erotic of all
Chanels, perhaps because it is a
scent that bears the name of another woman. It is also a masterful
reinterpretation of the lipstick accord, as reinvented by Sophia Grojsman (an
IFF perfumer, Olivier Polge’s alma mater), that manages to be both keenly
contemporary and almost archaic -- much like the Ballets Russes. In picking its new in-house perfumer, Chanel seems to have been right on the nose.
Misia will be commercially available
as of February 28th. You can already find it at www.chanel.com.
[i] In this particular case: the scent
focuses on lavender, which is historically an English fragrance note; hence,
“jersey”, since the knit fabric Coco Chanel made fashionable comes from the
Channel Islands.
[ii] The name comes from the lyrics of the
Gainsbourg song “Ronsard 58”, based on the 16th-century poem “When
you are old” by Pierre de Ronsard (for translations of both, click here)
Wonderful review! I can't wait to try this one.I love the violet rose of Putain des Palaces and Lipstick Rose, but I've been looking for a more elegant and sophisticated version. This seems like it could be it!
RépondreSupprimerBrooke
Brooke, thank you, and yes, I definitely think Misia is both those things.
SupprimerHBO Max is available on PlayStation 4 and other home devices through an update to the HBO Now app. However, currently, the HBO Max app does not allow users who have free access with their cable plan to connect with their TV provider's specs. hbo Max tvcode
RépondreSupprimerplex.tv/link and ensure you’re signed into the correct Plex account.
RépondreSupprimerplex.tv link
plex tv link
At GlobalAssignmentexpert.com, we never compromised with the quality.Our writers prepare a top-notch assignment for you that is free from any sort of plagiarism. We ensure you that you will score perfect grades if you are taking our perdisco assignment help
RépondreSupprimerGet high-quality Accounting assignment help UK through Go To Online Assignment Help, Research Paper Help and Physics Homework Help!
RépondreSupprimeraccounting assignment help UK
Insufficient time to study students are sucked into a tangle of homework these days and aren't able to devote to other tasks aside from writing assignments or working on homework. Because these activities consume a lot of their time, they're incapable of completing these tasks while keeping their the quality. Experts from Assignment Help Australia in completing these tasks to ensure that they submit their assignments on time and not compromise on quality.
RépondreSupprimerGo to My Assignment experts for cheap essay writing help service
RépondreSupprimerfor students studying at universities at the most affordable cost. We provide expert assistance with essay writing as well as assistance.
The global IPM Pheromones Market size was valued at USD 743.1 million in 2019 and is expected to expand at a CAGR of 7.4% from 2020 to 2027. Growing awareness regarding food security and concerns over the ill effects of synthetic crop protection chemicals are expected to drive the market. Integrated pest management (IPM) pheromones are considered clean and eco-friendly as compared to pesticides. IPM pheromones belong to the category of products that are used to trap, catch, or kill pesticides, mainly during agricultural activities. They are insect secretions used to communicate and trap other pests. They are classified under the semiochemicals category, which are the chemicals that convey signals from one organism to the other in order to modify the behaviour of the recipient organism.
RépondreSupprimerYoutube.com/activate
RépondreSupprimerA YouTube activation code is an is made by the youtube application on explicit contraptions, for eg Apple, Xbox Wii, etc, or other related devices, which is done through a google account. The establishment code is normal for the restoration of the sign-in process.
Ce commentaire a été supprimé par l'auteur.
RépondreSupprimerHi,
RépondreSupprimerIt is really a great post by you. I found this so interesting. Keep it up and keep sharing such posts.
Writing an assignment a night before submitting an assignment is really a daunting task. Many students have a query that they face issue while crafting their assignment or completing their assessment. There are many reasons behind this like lack of time, lack of interest in particular subjects and tight deadlines. So, If you are facing trouble and want assignment help in australia. Then there are a number of online assignment service companies that can help you out at a very reasonable fee.
Many different subjects where students mostly seek assignment help are chcece001 assessment answers, chcece004 assessment answers, Law Assignment Help, etc.
Go to My Assignment Experts for the most affordable essay writing assistance for university students. We provide experienced essay writing assistance as well as other services.
RépondreSupprimercheap assignment-help
Assignment help online
تنظيف المجالس بالدمام
RépondreSupprimerشركات تنظيف المجالس بالدمام
RépondreSupprimerI'm glad to arrive at a smart and educative blog review. I admire your nice and beautiful piece knowledge shared. Looking forward to new updates. Thanks for the interesting read. unilorin cut-off mark
Thanku for posting I will also refer this to someone, to know more about Best Hrms software in india
RépondreSupprimerI really Love this method using for writing the article is really great thank you for the information. Visit eksu pre-degree admission 2023
RépondreSupprimerHave a nice time visiting your blog. It is a special pleasure to browse this Exclusives content of yours. It’s quite interesting and knowledgeable ideas shared. Thank you very much for your good work. Thanks for sharing. bells university top-up degree admission form closing date visit - Best Related Educational Updates Portal in the World; Examination and Academic Guide, High Paying Jobs & Scholarship Website
RépondreSupprimerLearning something new has always been a joy, from this post came to learn a lot of informations, appreciate you sharing this.
RépondreSupprimerWe provide academic helping hand for students . Check out the term paper help. Our experts writers will construct a thorough research based , informative , error free paper for students helping them to achieve high grades.
RépondreSupprimerI m very pleased to read this article.
RépondreSupprimerYou have touched some pleasant factors here.
It’s perfect time to make a few plans for the future and it is time to be happy.
RépondreSupprimerPerhaps you could write next articles referring to this article.
RépondreSupprimerCricut machines are known for their versatile features that help crafters customize just about anything, including shirts, greeting cards, stickers, and much more. However, a Cricut machine setup does not work independently. It works with its software, Cricut Design Space, which is easily available on install cricut design space app. After installing this software, you can create any design and cut it through your machine.
RépondreSupprimerIf you want inspiration for crafting with maximum output, then choose a Cricut machine. With this smart tool, you can save time and precisely cut different designs to your liking. Similar to a home printer, Cricut goes far beyond printing, allowing you to cut, write, foil, and score a variety of materials. This is beginner-friendly, and the setup process is easy – simply visit Cricut New Machine Setup, download Cricut Design Space, and begin your Cricut journey.
RépondreSupprimerBrother printers suit the pocket of small-scale and large-scale businesses, whether working from the office or home. They provide various ranges of printers that give top-quality printouts on multiple pages as per the command given. Before working on the Brother printer, the user needs to set up the printer from support.brother.com by following all the on-screen steps.
RépondreSupprimerAre you redesigning your workplace and looking for multipurpose printers? Then, the Canon printer should be your first preference. Their all-in-one printers are easy to use and can print documents all day without any errors. Give a final look at your office by setting up a Canon printer with a PC. To complete the setup process, you need to go to ij.start.canon and start printing the documents.
RépondreSupprimer