tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post6270404146469409274..comments2024-03-29T09:11:58.393+01:00Comments on Grain de musc: Sneak preview: Dans tes Bras by Maurice Roucel, the new Frédéric Mallecarmencanada /Grain de Muschttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comBlogger33125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-69677794289825769742008-09-13T11:08:00.000+02:002008-09-13T11:08:00.000+02:00Alyssa, I have no idea when DTB launches in the U....Alyssa, I have no idea when DTB launches in the U.S. It's either October or November according to various blogs.<BR/>It's a strange one, that's for sure. The French blogger Ambre Gris, as well a regular commenter here, Vero59, both found it disturbingly mushroomy until the drydown. I read that as wet earth, but I'll need to test it again.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-87107607929554640432008-09-13T00:53:00.000+02:002008-09-13T00:53:00.000+02:00Thanks for the lovely review, D. This sounds just ...Thanks for the lovely review, D. This sounds just perfect for me, given my very particular tastes in violets. :-) I love the idea of a the wood being sandalwood instead of cedar... Do you know what the release date is for the U.S.?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-71295697970294080412008-08-05T21:33:00.000+02:002008-08-05T21:33:00.000+02:00E., that's a very good point. It's hard to know, s...E., that's a very good point. It's hard to know, short of asking the involved parties, how much art directing goes on between Malle and his perfumers. But there's no particular reason for a perfumer, on his own, to be a visionary: he works within the confines of his own taste.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-13914901793490973852008-08-05T21:07:00.000+02:002008-08-05T21:07:00.000+02:00Well, but do they all have a vision? It 's like re...Well, but do they all have a vision? It 's like reading Duras, the writing is stunning but the story isn 't very enthralling. Ellena is extremely talented...in his lab, but when he came back from Egypt, poorly inspired his Jardin sur le Nil turned out to be a disappointing refreshing citrucy eau de toilette that was just the distorted vision a french tourist who traveled three days in the middle-east and only remembered the hotel room!<BR/>If it wasn 't for being commissioned by Serge Lutens for so many years, Chris Sheldrake wouldn 't be Chanel art director today (they only hired him in the face of years of experience working closely with Serge Lutens) and he would have never done the latest Serge Noire on his own either, he 'd probably be creating new molecules for big firms, which I 'm sure is very exciting...<BR/><BR/>That 's why to me the Malle concept is basically a marketing niche thing, my analysis goes beyond personal tastes, putting perfumers to the forefront is not working as well as we think it would. <BR/>Roucel is another extremely talented perfumer but left on his own with complete artistic freedom he comes up with mainstream compositions. Even though beautifully executed, Dans Tes Bras doesn 't sound as groudbreaking as his commissioned Iris Silver Mist was, I 'm afraid it 's just a pretty violet.<BR/><BR/>emmanuellaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-7308961134938633582008-08-04T16:22:00.000+02:002008-08-04T16:22:00.000+02:00E., I think it's the difference between a person c...E., I think it's the difference between a person creating his own body of work based on his very personal vision, like Lutens (albeit with the help of the discreet Christopher Sheldrake, whose input has never been disclosed), and a publisher. As a writer, I know that some publishers are directive with certain authors and not with others, and I suppose it works that way too with Malle. One can also surmise that some Malle perfumes are actually formulas developed for other, bigger brands, who rejected them, and were later perfected for release.<BR/>But I beg to differ on Une Fleur de Cassie, which is a remarkable and complex composition, perhaps the best in the catalogue.<BR/>And I still do think that in putting the perfumers forward, Malle helped to increase the perception of their work;<BR/>Après, on aime ou on n'aime pas...carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-54965959694134549492008-08-04T16:07:00.000+02:002008-08-04T16:07:00.000+02:00* ...but is it really impressive? emmanuella* ...but is it really impressive? <BR/><BR/>emmanuellaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-77421021504574025752008-08-04T16:05:00.000+02:002008-08-04T16:05:00.000+02:00Well it 's great he puts perfumers to the forefron...Well it 's great he puts perfumers to the forefront but why is it really impressive? Maybe these perfumers do a better job working under guidelines, I just don 't feel much passion. L 'Eau d 'Hiver, Fleur de Cassie and Cologne Bigarade when you 're given complete artistic freedom and no bugdet limits??<BR/><BR/>Lutens has more depth, humour and soul, to me it 's crucial. They always make a big deal about the non export bell jar thing but they also don 't relate to his artistic world. How many times POlers / Basenoters bashed Lutens over his fragrance press releases and over his photographic artwork? The guys at Basenotes banned me for posting this link and defending it against moronic people who would come in and say it 's "sick":<BR/><BR/>http://paris.blog.lemonde.fr/2007/05/13/serge-lutens-architecte-de-la-mode-l%E2%80%99esprit-serge-lutens-3e-partie/Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-62744401803926801562008-08-04T14:37:00.000+02:002008-08-04T14:37:00.000+02:00You've got to give credit to Malle for being the f...You've got to give credit to Malle for being the first to put perfumers to the forefront. I don't read the paper press much, so I'm not really aware of his public statements. As for elitism, I think the brunt of complaints addressed to Lutens stem from the fact that the bell jars aren't available outside Europe. Whereas the Malles are now sold around the world, so that, at least, is not a source of complaint.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-17604135205248373432008-08-04T13:55:00.000+02:002008-08-04T13:55:00.000+02:00I was trying to say Malle is so obnoxious. Serious...I was trying to say Malle is so obnoxious. Seriously he keeps on praising himself yet his fragrance line is nice but doesn 't impress me too much. OK I admit, I 'm ranting again, only because the nerd herd at POL and Basenotes call Lutens an elistist, so it 's only fair... LOL<BR/><BR/>emmanuellaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-14582377362185892922008-08-04T00:01:00.000+02:002008-08-04T00:01:00.000+02:00Well, Emmanuella, I think every single perfume hou...Well, Emmanuella, I think every single perfume house dreams of coming up with a Chanel N°5. It ain't happening, but we can have some pleasure on the way there...carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-60611876565422245542008-08-03T23:30:00.000+02:002008-08-03T23:30:00.000+02:00My wish list to Malle is stop bragging with your "...My wish list to Malle is stop bragging with your "I work with the greatest perfumers of our times" marketing crap thing and come up with a true masterpiece perfume, a real one, a new legendary No 5 or Mitsouko that will still be around in a hundred years! <BR/><BR/>emmanuellaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-21732955456985458492008-08-02T14:56:00.000+02:002008-08-02T14:56:00.000+02:00Hi A. ! Well, to me, Musc Ravageur is actually muc...Hi A. ! Well, to me, Musc Ravageur is actually much more of an amber-vanilla than a musk... But let's hope (not too much) that Malle's people will read our wish list!carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-83941667191347025922008-08-02T13:43:00.000+02:002008-08-02T13:43:00.000+02:00Hmmmmm. I loathe violet, frankly, I have never me...Hmmmmm. I loathe violet, frankly, I have never met one I liked and I'll go to my grave maintaining that Aimez Moi tried to kill me, but I'll give it a sniff when I get the chance. <BR/><BR/>I don't need a leather from Malle, I need an <B>amber</B>!!! Where is my <B>AAAAAMBEEEEEERRRRR???????</B> I've been waiting for years for one of Malle's stable of geniuses (Roucel would do nicely)to tackle my favorite note, and still I wait...StyleSpyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09032983147859861793noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-27916756077054399532008-08-02T12:18:00.000+02:002008-08-02T12:18:00.000+02:00I love both CF and TC, though TC is the one I woul...I love both CF and TC, though TC is the one I wouldn't do without... And I do wear Lipstick Rose on occasion, though I've got to be in the mood! Question de goût! ;-)carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-65717792729325504782008-08-02T02:16:00.000+02:002008-08-02T02:16:00.000+02:00Carmencanda you got a point, Luca Turin "est capab...Carmencanda you got a point, Luca Turin "est capable du meilleur comme du pire" but I wouldn 't swap the very silky chic and polished Lutens Tubereuse Criminell for Malle 's overtly green herbal campherous Carnal Flower which I really don 't find sexy or carnal at all. Lipstick Rose after buying the big size bottle I realised I never wore it, it ended up on ebay with Musc Ravageur and they sold quite good ok but not as good as some of the Lutens I fell out of love with.<BR/><BR/>emmanuellaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-22985072790031313542008-08-01T23:13:00.000+02:002008-08-01T23:13:00.000+02:00Elizabeth, as I've said, I'm not a great violet fa...Elizabeth, as I've said, I'm not a great violet fan, though I have a place in my heart for Lipstick Rose... But Dans Tes Bras takes an entirely different tack.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-72219567523836335252008-08-01T23:12:00.000+02:002008-08-01T23:12:00.000+02:00Emmanuella, I would love nothing more than a stell...Emmanuella, I would love nothing more than a stellar leather by one of Frédéric Malle's perfumers, but I'm stumped as to which direction it should take. <BR/>I own quite a few Malles and I wouldn't swap them for several of the 5-star fragrances in Luca and Tania's guide. Tommy Girl and Beyond Paradise rather than Une Fleur de Cassie or Le Parfum de Thérèse? I think not.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-72269615542863705612008-08-01T21:15:00.000+02:002008-08-01T21:15:00.000+02:00Thanks for teh great review! Despite the fact that...Thanks for teh great review! Despite the fact that I am not a violet lover (it's usually too sweet for me), this sounds like something I would really like - green violets, earth, incense, sandalwood...heavenly!!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-7499191227954172792008-08-01T19:49:00.000+02:002008-08-01T19:49:00.000+02:00C. actually don 't you think Malle needed a stunni...C. actually don 't you think Malle needed a stunning leather instead of a "pretty" violet? He always brags his line is created by the greatest most talented perfumers in the world, but none of the Malles are rated masterpiece in the latest Luca Turin guide and that 's my feeling too.<BR/><BR/>emmanuellaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-81576545706247197302008-08-01T14:48:00.000+02:002008-08-01T14:48:00.000+02:00Je vous en prie, Jarvis. Dans tes Bras is definite...Je vous en prie, Jarvis. Dans tes Bras is definitely not in the same family as Musc Ravageur: it's the polar opposite in fact. As for Paris, what can I say? Start saving up too!carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-77395721530494978882008-08-01T14:47:00.000+02:002008-08-01T14:47:00.000+02:00Chaya, ma soeur! I hope it'll live up to your expe...Chaya, ma soeur! I hope it'll live up to your expectations!carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-82157179698093013552008-08-01T14:46:00.000+02:002008-08-01T14:46:00.000+02:00Matt, I'm not a big violet fan, and I loathe cashm...Matt, I'm not a big violet fan, and I loathe cashmeran on its own, but this seems to be quite impeccable, neither sweet nor makeup-like. I'll bet it's great on a man.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-15986574112445391572008-08-01T14:35:00.000+02:002008-08-01T14:35:00.000+02:00Merci, Denyse, for the lovely review. I was a bit ...Merci, Denyse, for the lovely review. I was a bit apprehensive about this at first -- like Emmanuella, Musc Ravageur is too sweet and vanillic for me. I am a fan of violet (even some of the cheap ones), and this one sounds well blended.<BR/><BR/>I volunteer to be back-up male test subject for when Billy is not available. :-)Jarvishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08320628861633769796noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-26521438581697368012008-08-01T13:19:00.000+02:002008-08-01T13:19:00.000+02:00Ah, ma soeur-This one's got my name on it.Phooey.S...Ah, ma soeur-<BR/>This one's got my name on it.<BR/>Phooey.<BR/><BR/>Sounds miraculous.chayaruchamahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04889166567884475415noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-45508787114406539292008-08-01T12:19:00.000+02:002008-08-01T12:19:00.000+02:00You were right! I'm gonna need to be smelling thi...You were right! I'm gonna need to be smelling this. It sounds right up my alley, violets without the prissiness. Hmmm... a sexy, skin violet...I like the idea of an introverted counterpart to Musc Ravageur.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com