tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post470742364727743216..comments2024-03-28T10:30:51.283+01:00Comments on Grain de musc: The Gender of Scent (III): Chanel Sycomorecarmencanada /Grain de Muschttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-61644686916108871642008-06-22T06:55:00.000+02:002008-06-22T06:55:00.000+02:00Dear I., thanks for pointing that out: Sycomore is...Dear I., thanks for pointing that out: Sycomore is both full-bodied and tonic, somewhat like N°18 and, even the eau de Cologne of the Exclusives line. An excellent addition, well in keeping with the style of the collection.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-80273002232227289452008-06-22T03:50:00.000+02:002008-06-22T03:50:00.000+02:00We agree, encore une fois.While not new, by any me...We agree, encore une fois.<BR/><BR/>While not new, by any means- it is excellently rendered, smoky, and full-figured.<BR/>No pale, wan, anemic jus this.<BR/><BR/>Good tonic for all who desire it...chayaruchamahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04889166567884475415noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-39376860457299062012008-06-20T12:56:00.000+02:002008-06-20T12:56:00.000+02:00E., if you send me the link to your list of fragra...E., if you send me the link to your list of fragrances used by celebrities, I'll add it. It's always interesting to consult it!carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-46739656680215227002008-06-20T12:47:00.000+02:002008-06-20T12:47:00.000+02:00Very interesting info, Octavian! (as always)I do k...Very interesting info, Octavian! (as always)<BR/><BR/>I do know about the hesperidic odour profile of vetiver (as analysed by Arctander,although I don't recall it as been specified as such, but it's been a while since I read so) but to hear of specific combinations it's wonderful. Thanks.<BR/><BR/>D, I know...Good thing I have disallowed open-source any longer ;-) Because they copied in an inelegant(?) way; otherwise, I'm flattered :-)Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-83712271397665867952008-06-19T18:23:00.000+02:002008-06-19T18:23:00.000+02:00Dear O.,I was referring to vetiver as the starring...Dear O.,<BR/>I was referring to vetiver as the starring note: fragrances called "Vetiver" have always been masculine.<BR/>But of course it is a prominent note in many feminine fragrances: yesterday, it popped up in my vintage Bandit. It is also a star player in modern compositions like Vero Kern's Onda, admittedly a non-gendered scent.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-45162251121503009902008-06-19T18:19:00.000+02:002008-06-19T18:19:00.000+02:00Dear E., I was told by "those who know" that the g...Dear E., <BR/>I was told by "those who know" that the grapefruit facet was part of the vetiver oil itself, as Octavian confirms in his own comment.<BR/>As for your celebrity list, it has made such inroads on the Net that I didn't even have to consult it to read about Jicky's famous users: they are quoted all over on Google as soon as you research the fragrance. The wonders of open-source! ;-)carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-62295828254458385362008-06-19T14:44:00.000+02:002008-06-19T14:44:00.000+02:00vetiver and grapefruit notes like methyl pamplemou...vetiver and grapefruit notes like methyl pamplemousse were allways good friends. even the natural oil depending on the source might have this kind of notes. The same frendship is true for pineapple and galbanum (from Dynascone to AAG plus the naturals).<BR/>But vetiver played a major role in many classics of feminine perfumery. Used either as vetiver oil Bourbon, vetiveril acetate, vetivenol and all kind of products derived from the oil. It's important in the soft woody note (powdery) of chypre aldehydic perfumes. I like this note in Crepe de Chine, Arpege, Ma griffe, Djedi. Vetiver + orris and powdery notes gave the very famous base Vetyrisia, present in many classic products. <BR/><BR/>OctavianAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-4518232128676918262008-06-19T13:47:00.000+02:002008-06-19T13:47:00.000+02:00I am expecting my very own twig of Sycomore soon, ...I am expecting my very own twig of <I>Sycomore</I> soon, so I will let you know of my impressions then. <BR/>I am a little surprised to hear of the grapefruit nuances, which undoubtedly must derive from aromachemicals (possibly 3-mercapto-4-heptanone and 3-mercapto-4-heptanol) rather than the natural essence rich in sulfurous matter. It would become simply too much sweat that way!<BR/><BR/>It might make Guerlain headquarters wonder why they haven't made <I>Vetiver pour Elle</I> more readily available, though!<BR/><BR/>Blurring of genders is a good thing in a fragrance wardrobe :-)<BR/><BR/><BR/>And PS. I am very glad that my celebrity perfume list has been embedded so much in consiousness as to provide refs for such masterpieces as <I>Jicky</I>.Perfumeshrinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06222733129203280662noreply@blogger.com