tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post3029980902604948671..comments2024-03-28T10:30:51.283+01:00Comments on Grain de musc: Private Collection Jasmine White Moss by Estée Lauder: Holographic Chyprecarmencanada /Grain de Muschttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-81698747936262732752009-08-01T23:00:13.038+02:002009-08-01T23:00:13.038+02:00Flora, it's definitely old-school in feel. And...Flora, it's definitely old-school in feel. And very good.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-36615746102404439332009-08-01T20:50:25.001+02:002009-08-01T20:50:25.001+02:00I hope to try this soon - I went to my Lauder coun...I hope to try this soon - I went to my Lauder counter yesterday and it's coming in the next few days. I have hopes for it since it's based on an older formula; I can't wear, or bear, the newer ones that all smell the same on me after a few minutes. Hopefully this one will be devoid of the dreaded "Lauder accord" and thus wearable for me. I don't expect it to be great, but I would hope for very good.Florahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00510346346502906435noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-28814462162460446862009-07-30T12:48:56.004+02:002009-07-30T12:48:56.004+02:00Ce commentaire a été supprimé par un administrateur du blog.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-34576618155974066262009-07-29T20:41:54.928+02:002009-07-29T20:41:54.928+02:00Ce commentaire a été supprimé par un administrateur du blog.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-88564698616792386322009-07-29T00:37:21.872+02:002009-07-29T00:37:21.872+02:00Ce commentaire a été supprimé par un administrateur du blog.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-28738683673146601572009-07-28T18:12:33.262+02:002009-07-28T18:12:33.262+02:00March, clearly I don't want to seem dismissive...March, clearly I don't want to seem dismissive either of American perfumes or American perfumistas, and as I said, I don't like over-generalizations. God knows as a French Canadian, I grew up on Estée Lauders and the brand is truly a part of my olfactory heritage.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-54693695486165489852009-07-28T18:10:10.770+02:002009-07-28T18:10:10.770+02:00March, now I'm holding out for the perfume ver...March, now I'm holding out for the perfume version (if it ever hits these shores), which might be added value compared to the older green chypres, many of which aren't produced in that concentration.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-68371123060771235882009-07-28T18:09:03.355+02:002009-07-28T18:09:03.355+02:00Victoria, thank you for the info, I was going to e...Victoria, thank you for the info, I was going to email you to ask about it... I was wondered whether it was a molecule or an accord (which seemed more likely from the name and odorant effect).<br />I'm glad green is making a comeback too -- I'm studying late-60s early 70s fragrances right now and it's a very typical note of the period.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-77318772803647039722009-07-28T17:41:00.974+02:002009-07-28T17:41:00.974+02:00And PS I found your "American" discussio...And PS I found your "American" discussion in these comments interesting. I personally imagine you in a difficult situation: aware (as you must be) of potential sensitivities by your English speaking readers of feeling dismissed by the French. FWIW I got where you were going, and no offense was noted. I think someone (Perfume Shrine?) did an interesting post on the concept of quintessentially American perfumes not too long ago.Marchhttp://www.perfumeposse.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-7449253306930428272009-07-28T17:37:36.759+02:002009-07-28T17:37:36.759+02:00It sounds like we got a lot of the same thing from...It sounds like we got a lot of the same thing from it. I too kept thinking of what it reminded me of -- only those fragrances are mostly better (in my opinion) and cheaper.Marchhttp://www.perfumeposse.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-55137258105204010352009-07-28T15:08:34.387+02:002009-07-28T15:08:34.387+02:00Mist is just a name, sort of like a proprietary na...Mist is just a name, sort of like a proprietary name for a formulation. White moss Mist is an accord based on a study of a certain type of moss. It is called Mist, because there are other moss accords from the same study, which are heavier and darker. <br />For some strange reason, I actually did not get to smell this one until it hit the market, but I liked it. I do not mind a well-done retro and I certainly welcome any return to green chypres, however attenuated they might be. <br />VictoriaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-17090059387365617592009-07-28T00:31:14.458+02:002009-07-28T00:31:14.458+02:00Ce commentaire a été supprimé par un administrateur du blog.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-320587199315960832009-07-26T19:13:41.234+02:002009-07-26T19:13:41.234+02:00Melissa, I suppose the parfum would be richer... I...Melissa, I suppose the parfum would be richer... I've smelled this again today and once more, it felt like a cross between Cristalle and a Roudnitska. As far as neo-classical Roudnitska-esque chypres go, I still think something like Francis Kurkdjian's L'Enlèvement au Sérail for MDCI has a richer feel to it.And Cristalle is still around in good condition. So...carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-65101127419577452062009-07-26T16:08:12.696+02:002009-07-26T16:08:12.696+02:00Hello Denyse
Maybe I need to try this again, but ...Hello Denyse<br /><br />Maybe I need to try this again, but at first sniff, I did not like this at all. I need more indoles in my jasmine and more mossiness overall in a chypre. It smelled thin and synthetic on me, with none of the richness that I crave in a chypre. Maybe, as Chaya mentioned, the parfum would be better?melisand61https://www.blogger.com/profile/12802652658028346558noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-71601751803577886072009-07-26T11:46:51.143+02:002009-07-26T11:46:51.143+02:00Bijou Olfactif, thanks for raising the point(s).
...Bijou Olfactif, thanks for raising the point(s).<br /><br />I loathe over-generalization and I always try to distinguish between, say, an idea of what is "French", "American", whatever, and the individuals who have that passport. Just as I hate saying “men are like this”, “women are like that”, etc.<br /><br />I used the word "diverse" in its primary meaning, "many and different", without the reference to ethnicity it has come to take on.<br /><br />I use "American" as a concept in fragrance in opposition to the "French" concept. The American school of perfumery (in recent history) veers either towards marketing-driven, “clean” scents with no overtly erotic or heady notes, just as it meant “bang-for-your-buck” powerhouses in the 80s. Many French perfumers of the old school that I’ve spoken to perceive and deplore the influence of the American style on the market as a whole. JWM seems to me to be the interpretation of chypre within that American style.<br /><br />However, as a great many American perfume lovers I know have a much wider palette of tastes, I took care to distinguish the concept and the individuals. Though I’m not French, I’ve been living in France long enough to get bugged at sweeping generalizations about the French, I figure my American readers might be annoyed too to be lumped into a single category.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-31786694420466063872009-07-26T11:34:11.904+02:002009-07-26T11:34:11.904+02:00Robin, yes, there may be a kind of Canadian spirit...Robin, yes, there may be a kind of Canadian spirit at play though I'd be hard-pressed to define it (as would most Canadians, I suspect).<br /><br />To this day, I do try to count my blessings about living in Paris, which gives me the opportunity, among other things, of meeting certain perfumers (but that's the least of it!).<br /><br />About vintage: I really need to get down and wear/review some of my beauties, many of which I've mostly used for my own culture. But the very thought is daunting.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-46780204017037744732009-07-26T11:02:58.677+02:002009-07-26T11:02:58.677+02:00"Thoroughly Americanized – no offense intende..."Thoroughly Americanized – no offense intended to Americans: I’m talking about the concept, not the actual, diverse individuals."<br /><br />Why so apologetic, carmencanada? <br />What do you call "Thoroughly Americanized", at least in perfumery? <br />you mentioned in the french section "american diversity" as opposed to concept; about diversity in america, this country is both about and not about diversity (just because the president is biracial although defines himself black, doesn't mean the whole country is as diverse...yet, but complex yes it is).Uellahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00470633955030465849noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-485859696576501952009-07-26T06:52:20.754+02:002009-07-26T06:52:20.754+02:00Somehow I sensed some kind of connection between u...Somehow I sensed some kind of connection between us, Denyse. It's a Canadian thing.<br /><br />How lovely to live where you do. I eagerly saved your Right and Left Bank Paris fragrance tours of late, dreaming of the day. . .Invaluable reference material without a doubt.<br /><br />I know what you mean about vintage scents. There are certain times, places, moods for them. Although it saddens me that so many of the old materials will never be used again in modern fragrances, I am heartened by the originality and beauty of some of the new releases which incorporate the kind of molecular technology I imagine the classic perfumers of the day would have loved to play with. If there is a heaven, getting all those noses together to discuss, share and create would truly be heavenly.Robin R.https://www.blogger.com/profile/14821740734278429017noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-38530879185471102942009-07-26T02:06:35.874+02:002009-07-26T02:06:35.874+02:00Malena, I agree: on the global scale of events, th...Malena, I agree: on the global scale of events, the castration of chypres is only a blip, but it still feels like a loss...<br /><br />I don't know what Romy Schneider wore. Maybe Helg has an idea, she did a list of the fragrances worn by stars a while back. Helg?carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-83863022830491914642009-07-26T02:03:29.407+02:002009-07-26T02:03:29.407+02:00Robin, no, I'm not from Vancouver. Though I *a...Robin, no, I'm not from Vancouver. Though I *am* Canadian: I come from Montreal but I've been living in Paris for ages and my name is Denyse. <br />Thank you for you kind words. I couldn't agree more about vintage perfumes. Though I can't wear them on a daily basis, they elicit a very different feeling from the contemporary ones, at least in the mainstream -- there are several "parfums d'auteur" composed with soul...carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-75894885525033065542009-07-25T23:23:07.880+02:002009-07-25T23:23:07.880+02:00Dear D.,
Whenever I hear that a newly released sc...Dear D.,<br /><br />Whenever I hear that a newly released scent is classified as a chypre it stings me because it reminds me of all those beautiful perfumes that are lost forever. (I know this may sound rather melodramatic & there are much more important and/or dramatic things in life than the loss of chypres, but to be it´s a tragedy.)<br />So far JWM isn´t released in Germany & I´m sure it´ll take quite a while until it´ll pop up in stores. Maybe I´ll like it, but it won´t be the "real thing" & won´t surely give me the feeling of some kind of secureness that pre-formulated chypres always evoke in me.<br /><br />BTW: Do you maybe know which perfume Romy Schneider used to wear? I was wondering about it while I was watching "Le mouton enragé" a few days ago & was once again impressed by her screen presence & her melancholic beauty. Now that you mentioned her name this question aroused again. IMO chypres would have fit her perfectly.Malenanoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-42284863722159789482009-07-25T20:51:57.966+02:002009-07-25T20:51:57.966+02:00Are you the lovely L from Vancouver, CC? I seem to...Are you the lovely L from Vancouver, CC? I seem to remember there is a connection between you and your alter-ego. . .<br />Just wanted to thank you for the gift or your knowledge and your beautiful, very fluid and able writing. Nothing I've read has captured Jasmine White Moss like your review. I don't know how you say so much in so few words, but you sure know how to choose them.<br />I have now been officially bitten by the vintage bug, and it's a BAD one. There is something about older scents that is addictive; for me, I think it's the authenticity of them. They were created as a perfumer's self-expression, not as a product designed to sell in volume as profitably as possible.Robin R.https://www.blogger.com/profile/14821740734278429017noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-5743908502513441822009-07-25T13:23:44.246+02:002009-07-25T13:23:44.246+02:00Chaya, I guess I'm just being a grumpy classic...Chaya, I guess I'm just being a grumpy classicist and perhaps not giving this the chance I'd give if I hadn't known the templates of the genre. I'm actually very glad that Lauder is putting out sophisticated, adult fragrances.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-67963161364521079952009-07-25T11:53:40.218+02:002009-07-25T11:53:40.218+02:00Not LOSS, my friend; I hear you.
I have my bottles...Not LOSS, my friend; I hear you.<br />I have my bottles of 'beloveds' which I use and treasure...<br /><br />This isn't one of those.<br />But in its own right, it is delightful.<br /><br />Simply not in the same category ;)<br />Bisous !chayaruchamahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04889166567884475415noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-44152153796493436622009-07-25T01:20:15.973+02:002009-07-25T01:20:15.973+02:00Chaya, it's the edp, and I gave myself my usua...Chaya, it's the edp, and I gave myself my usual good squirts on both wrists... I'm sure the parfum is richer, how couldn't it be? I'll be sure to sample it when it reaches my shores. I'd be delighted to eat my words, but for the moment, I still own too much of the real oakmossy stuff to get a true kick out of this one. My loss.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.com