tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post2574886444666414340..comments2024-03-29T09:11:58.393+01:00Comments on Grain de musc: Bertrand Duchaufour speaks of L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse: an Exclusive Interview (Part I)carmencanada /Grain de Muschttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comBlogger31125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-32433836842988404162010-05-07T16:02:57.615+02:002010-05-07T16:02:57.615+02:00Dee, I love the way you put it. I think BD's p...Dee, I love the way you put it. I think BD's perfumes do integrate that element of uncertainty, that edge that keeps you guessing, because they're such strong, individual options. Every new encounter puts everything at stake again.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-3944115687665844532010-05-07T15:59:01.838+02:002010-05-07T15:59:01.838+02:00I keep coming back to this review/interview; after...I keep coming back to this review/interview; after falling in love with both Havana Vanille and Al Oudh (so different yet so perfect), I'm afraid I'm setting myself up for major disappointment... and then I come back to your review.<br />Even if the fragrance itself doesn't work for me, I'm having fun.<br />This feeling reminds me of what it's like when you are interested in someone, and you're not sure if they share your interest: every encounter is an emotional whirlwind that is later agonized over and replayed constantly in your mind. <br />Yeah, that's the fun part : )Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-38178023117960949492010-04-16T11:35:48.800+02:002010-04-16T11:35:48.800+02:00Nathan, I don't need to: it's seared into ...Nathan, I don't need to: it's seared into my DNA. Not always easy to apply, though... And clearly, Bertrand's the same.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-88701207332232172252010-04-16T07:39:32.621+02:002010-04-16T07:39:32.621+02:00"I like to set my own pace, on my own terms.&..."I like to set my own pace, on my own terms."<br /><br />I think you might actually have this printed up on a 3x5 card and taped to your computer monitor . . . ?Nathan Branchhttp://www.nathanbranch.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-78038962921642363862010-04-12T20:06:03.158+02:002010-04-12T20:06:03.158+02:00Nicola, you were lucky indeed I didn't take a ...Nicola, you were lucky indeed I didn't take a bite off your wrist. Nuit de Tubéreuse is a marvel at each step of its development, and you wore it well.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-35690610954744670652010-04-12T16:08:38.459+02:002010-04-12T16:08:38.459+02:00Again you set the bar for reviews very high, dear ...Again you set the bar for reviews very high, dear Denyse! I amlate to the tuberose party but now the light bulb has been switched on I am fascinated by the different treatments available. However this does seem unique in that it is not the creamy aspect which is prominent, rather, as you point out, its moist cool roots. And then again - that drydown!Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18195369076715870037noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-55580570559703366272010-04-10T01:13:29.093+02:002010-04-10T01:13:29.093+02:00Alyssa, basically that comes from not working for ...Alyssa, basically that comes from not working for a big lab any longer, but going indie -- he'll be speaking more of that in part II on Monday.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-75573916673911139392010-04-10T01:12:21.469+02:002010-04-10T01:12:21.469+02:00Fashionistaag, thanks. It was a fascinating conver...Fashionistaag, thanks. It was a fascinating conversation, that's for sure!carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-89054820700155190712010-04-09T19:42:16.733+02:002010-04-09T19:42:16.733+02:00This was really delightful, thank you. (And now I&...This was really delightful, thank you. (And now I'm dying to smell NdT.) I was especially delighted by BD's comments on the way exposure to natural materials has changed his style. I'm so happy he's gotten do more niche work.<br /><br />Also interested in Nathan's comment on Bolt of Lightning -- I adore that vegetal thunderstorm opening and will the thrilled to death if NdT approaches it in any way since I can't justify a bottle of the JAR.Alyssahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08651065872724626149noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-2647886718719938272010-04-09T19:16:26.239+02:002010-04-09T19:16:26.239+02:00Thank you, that was a truly fascinating read! Look...Thank you, that was a truly fascinating read! Looking forward to Part II and, of course, to sniffing Nuit de Tubéreuse - I definitely cannot pass up a fragrance with rooty darkness in it...fashionistaaghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07636650249082919327noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-88878423100024531692010-04-09T17:54:54.121+02:002010-04-09T17:54:54.121+02:00Scentscelf, Bertrand is very focused, intense and ...Scentscelf, Bertrand is very focused, intense and passionate -- just as kids are when they play. That's one of the things that's so compelling about him, and makes his work so original.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-8523498456262886972010-04-09T17:03:43.714+02:002010-04-09T17:03:43.714+02:00And your interview does bring out that element of ...And your interview does bring out that element of play, where he notes that certain of his employers have allowed him to do so. I had this very specific image of a kid playing with mud...must have been the muddling of "natural materials" and "joy of play." <br /><br />It can be hard for an artist to reflect on their evolution, especially when it is still in progress. I appreciate how open and well spoken he is, and how you enabled a dialogue that encouraged him to speak so (and then presented it to us so well). It's going to be interesting to sniff and reflect on his thoughts, here and in the part yet to come.<br /><br />Ha! Thanks for providing me with a chuckle via the Sheldrake comment. :)ScentScelfhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12264276265890227820noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-25560301577140959792010-04-09T15:37:01.298+02:002010-04-09T15:37:01.298+02:00ScentScelf, I think there may be more to Bertrand&...ScentScelf, I think there may be more to Bertrand's change in style than what he himself states. Some of it may come from his maturity as a perfumer and man (he just turned 50) and his continuing curiosity... But certainly, his exploring materials is a major part of it. I remember being in his lab once when he pulled out a very weird new mat, saying with relish "I've got to find a way to work this into a perfume!"<br />He loves the challenge of weird stuff, just like a little kid!<br /><br />Re: Tubéreuse Criminelle, I personally adore the opening, but I remember speaking with Chris Sheldrake about it and he said "the only thing that's criminal is the top notes". I just wanted to make the point to Bertrand that the venomous aspect of tuberose *had* been explored, though not in the way he does it.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-44005741719026280902010-04-09T15:27:43.735+02:002010-04-09T15:27:43.735+02:00Very interesting. There's a lot to chew on in...Very interesting. There's a lot to chew on in BD's responses...I find myself, however, ruminating the most on the simplest of his statements: that he attributes a "change" in his style to more direct contact with natural materials.<br /><br />It was good of you to bring up a reminder re: Tuberose Criminelle in the context of mothballs/camphor, since it is certainly there! I allow plenty of room for other ways to bring up this aspect in a tuberose perfume, since the camphor in TC strikes me as a literal "in your face" opening slap that treats me like a mule. As in the old saying, when you need a mule to do something, first you need to get its attention.... The net effect for me is TC gets my attention (not pleasantly), and then goes back to basics. Meaning there's plenty of room for an integrated approach...or, as BD says, "present but veiled."ScentScelfhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12264276265890227820noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-6679949304580315492010-04-09T00:35:34.467+02:002010-04-09T00:35:34.467+02:00Abigail, it doesn't remind me at all of Un Mat...Abigail, it doesn't remind me at all of Un Matin d'Orage -- no crackling ozonic note to it, and a much spicier feel with the cardamom absolute. You can tell it's in the same movement as Amaranthine, but it's less creamy.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-12202993948947859442010-04-09T00:34:28.225+02:002010-04-09T00:34:28.225+02:00Jarvis, exactly: he exposes the structure then pul...Jarvis, exactly: he exposes the structure then pulls it towards a new structure.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-38042770245339441502010-04-08T21:25:19.965+02:002010-04-08T21:25:19.965+02:00I cannot wait. simply cannot wait for Nuit de Tub...I cannot wait. simply cannot wait for Nuit de Tubereuse!!<br /><br />Does it remind you at all of Un Matin d'Orage in style? I mean, it sounds like a Tuberose version of UMdO, no?<br /><br />Excellent interview - a joy to read.Abigailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08164551758520564300noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-29786799923869279612010-04-08T19:07:58.910+02:002010-04-08T19:07:58.910+02:00As we've discussed in the past, I do like this...As we've discussed in the past, I do like this approach of deconstructing the multiple facets of the natural, accentuating certain aspects, and reconstructing up again. It's not just about deconstruction, because the pieces get put back together in interesting and beautiful ways.<br /><br />I find the JAR fragrances initially arresting when first smelled, but they seem to fall apart on the skin over time. With Bolt of Lightning, it often made me wonder whether they just bottled some high quality tuberose absolute and slapped a label on it.Jarvishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08320628861633769796noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-63411703569172137072010-04-08T16:05:23.824+02:002010-04-08T16:05:23.824+02:00Nathan, I'm afraid JAR isn't on my radar. ...Nathan, I'm afraid JAR isn't on my radar. Somehow the idea of going through that JAR boutique ceremony puts me off, in the same way I don't enjoy theatre much. I like to set my own pace, on my own terms.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-3158994735251555152010-04-08T16:03:49.662+02:002010-04-08T16:03:49.662+02:00Jarvis, it's been so noticeable of late... I f...Jarvis, it's been so noticeable of late... I find that approach very interesting in that it exhibits the structures of the composition process (apart from the fact that the stuff just plain smells great).carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-58325032987059980902010-04-08T16:01:33.121+02:002010-04-08T16:01:33.121+02:00Marcus: on Monday!Marcus: on Monday!carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-607723991858025082010-04-08T15:56:40.790+02:002010-04-08T15:56:40.790+02:00Denyse -- Finally! After reading your interview wi...Denyse -- Finally! After reading your interview with Duchaufour, I understand the first thirty minutes of JAR Bolt of Lightning: vegetal, rotting, stalky, mineralish. <br /><br />I could never quite figure out what all that had to do with tuberose, but now I know that this is what a hefty dose of tuberose absolute brings to the picture.<br /><br />I'm very curious as to what Duchaufour has done with his tuberose, and I'm wondering if Bolt of Lightning even registers on your list of tuberose fragrances you admire/love . . . ?Nathan Branchhttp://www.nathanbranch.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-59732237942431622922010-04-08T15:50:11.422+02:002010-04-08T15:50:11.422+02:00Ce commentaire a été supprimé par un administrateur du blog.Jarvishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08320628861633769796noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-76145747678194450412010-04-08T15:49:22.811+02:002010-04-08T15:49:22.811+02:00Hi, Denyse. Fascinating review and interview. I si...Hi, Denyse. Fascinating review and interview. I sincerely hope we get this in the US soon -- L'Artisan distribution in the US has seemed a bit erratic recently. <br /><br />I was very interested to read Monsieur Duchaufour's thoughts on how his style is changing, and how just the act of working more closely with raw materials (as well as with better raw materials) is transforming his approach. <br /><br />And yes, tuberose absolute has some rather disturbing olfactory facets, compared to the fresh flower!Jarvishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08320628861633769796noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-5270639283235202022010-04-08T15:37:02.387+02:002010-04-08T15:37:02.387+02:00Wow, very nice interview and write-up, D.
Part De...Wow, very nice interview and write-up, D.<br /><br />Part Deux, please!!!<br /><br />MarcusAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com