tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post3554174779361863950..comments2024-03-29T09:11:58.393+01:00Comments on Grain de musc: By Kilian Love and Tears / Surrender: Jasmine from top to bottomcarmencanada /Grain de Muschttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-75621591613669131742010-10-14T10:16:24.977+02:002010-10-14T10:16:24.977+02:00Sugandaraja, L & T is very lovely indeed. I...Sugandaraja, L & T is very lovely indeed. I'm thnking I may not have given it all the credit it deserved in my review: it seems to be very well received by connoisseurs, so I'll put my attitude down to a residual wariness about BK and to the fact I'm not a jasmine soliflore person.<br />And you're right, it hasn't got a tearful molecule in its body!carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-30892339489268936252010-10-14T08:22:23.977+02:002010-10-14T08:22:23.977+02:00Finally got around to trying this recently. I was ...Finally got around to trying this recently. I was expecting to be underwhelmed, but preparing for the worst, I found I really, really enjoyed it. It's no-where near as "thick" as things like the Lutens jasmines, but it's not trite as I've found other light-weight jasmines to be. It really reminds me of vintage Odalisque in the top notes, before that frag was sheared down by reformulation.<br /><br /> You are absolutely spot-on about it being the Beyond Love of jasmines. It didn't turn out to be "THE" jasmine, but it's one I'd love to own among my growing collection of jasmines. Despite the name, this is my "happy" jasmine - jasmine without the broodiness!<br /><br /> Just thought I'd drop a note here, as without your review, I wouldn't have thought to search out and sample it.Sugandarajahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09062165425090675638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-75678984886623873882010-08-14T12:50:56.917+02:002010-08-14T12:50:56.917+02:00Flora, I'll have to re-test the Le Galion Jasm...Flora, I'll have to re-test the Le Galion Jasmin I have. I must say I was distracted by the Tubéreuse, which is an astounding prefiguration of Tubéreuse Criminelle, and comes pretty close to Goutal's Tubéreuse Absolue, which means the Le Galion must have contained a hefty dose of the already very costly absolute. Highly recommended if you can find it.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-70411866299637138502010-08-14T08:20:23.850+02:002010-08-14T08:20:23.850+02:00Oh, I really want to sample this one! Beyond Love ...Oh, I really want to sample this one! Beyond Love is a real favorite of mine, as I am also a tuberose fan, and I really love jasmine. I recently got hold of some vintage Le Galion Jasmin in two different concentrations, and even the Eau de Cologne is powerfully indolic and just gorgeous.<br /><br />What I look forward to even more is your book! :-)Florahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00510346346502906435noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-64932516372239124902010-08-12T17:33:00.022+02:002010-08-12T17:33:00.022+02:00P.S. Thanks for your kind words on my writing! I&#...P.S. Thanks for your kind words on my writing! I'm not sure at this point I need luck with the book: an intravenous drip would be more practical, since I find preparing and consuming food to be a frustrating loss of time when I'm writing...carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-47826851571517766292010-08-12T17:30:52.931+02:002010-08-12T17:30:52.931+02:00Sugandaraja, L&T is definitely less animalic t...Sugandaraja, L&T is definitely less animalic than either of the Lutens so it might fill another slot for you.<br />I don't think soliflore is particularly this year's trend: it's a constant in niche, but it's true we tuberose addicts have been spoiled lately, and it seems that jasmine is taking over as the goût du jour...carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-22021649468547169482010-08-12T16:58:46.960+02:002010-08-12T16:58:46.960+02:00Ce commentaire a été supprimé par l'auteur.Sugandarajahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09062165425090675638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-25092457499730458712010-08-12T16:57:51.853+02:002010-08-12T16:57:51.853+02:00I'm really looking forward to getting to try t...I'm really looking forward to getting to try this one. Though my obsession with tuberose and gardenia remain supreme, this has been the year for me and jasmine, and I find myself pursuing any jasmine soliflore that promises depth. I think spending a month this spring in San Francisco, where fragrant jasmine vines are planted everywhere, is what really kicked it off. <br /><br />Sarrasins has quickly become my go-to for "pure" jasmine, and Neil Morris' Gandhara for "dirty" jasmine ( it really does smell of jasmine and garbage in the best possible way ). That being said, fan-favorites like A La Nuit and its ilk ( too astringent and harsh ) and Jasmin Noir ( Where's the noir? Where's the jasmine? ) have left me cold, so it's tricky to predict just what I'll love.<br /><br /> The following words from your review - " Then a lactonic, honeyed heart with what feels like a frangipani accord – the notes list ylang-ylang, so that’s the tropical feel, and daffodil, which accounts for the honey" - really spiked my interest as that could be a description of the drydown of one of my all-time favorites, CdG's Champaca. <br /><br />Part of me is hoping for this to be THE jasmine for me, but I do understand what you mean about redundancy, however. I love tuberose, but for me, Beyond Love was Fracas' prettier but slightly less intellectual sister, and given the price difference and how well represented tuberose already is in my wardrobe, only Fracas is going to be bougnt anytime soon. I'll be curious to see if Love and Tears can win a place in my heart separate from Sarrasins and Gandhara.<br /><br /> Also - is it just me, or have soliflores made a big mark this year in niche? Nasomatto also released a jasmine soliflore this year, Nuda, and there seems to be a small and welcome boom in tuberose, too.<br /> <br /> Last but not least, good luck with the book! You are my favorite writer on fragrance, and I'd love for your voice on fragrance to be heard by more than just the internet fragrance community.Sugandarajahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09062165425090675638noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-41207309014684018562010-08-11T18:18:52.713+02:002010-08-11T18:18:52.713+02:00Anita, isn't that sample vs. FB thing weird? W...Anita, isn't that sample vs. FB thing weird? Was it a dab vs. spray thing do you think? <br /><br />Dubai is going to be pretty intensive, don't know when I'll be able to get away since I'll probably take a few meetings on top of the teaching, but I've scheduled an extra day for exploring. It's not exactly in my top ten list of destinations to see before I die, but while I'm there... And I'm sure my students will direct me to interest perfume places.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-2927461453128958602010-08-11T18:15:01.128+02:002010-08-11T18:15:01.128+02:00Denyse -
I would've killed to get 'bitter...Denyse -<br /><br />I would've killed to get 'bitter/green' from Drama Nuui. In fact, I DID get it - in the little sample that I got from Luckyscent.<br /><br />Then I got the FB.<br /><br />Gack! Muskoliciousness! What happened to the laser-green?<br /><br />Can't wait for your book!<br />xo <br /><br />oh! and I see you're going to Dubai! Carol Sasich (WAFT by Carol) clued me into a little Dubai house called Malak that does a lovely jasmine soliflore - might be worth your while to investigate if you don't already know it.<br /><br />xoAnitaMusettehttp://www.bearboring.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-90978906213820428942010-08-11T11:25:18.373+02:002010-08-11T11:25:18.373+02:00Rose, I think you've nailed it: brand identity...Rose, I think you've nailed it: brand identity comes before product, that's the way it goes!<br /><br />And please feel free to contact me about the course, the dates are up on the right-hand side column.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-22936124392109625712010-08-11T10:22:44.983+02:002010-08-11T10:22:44.983+02:00I know what you mean about having one of every maj...I know what you mean about having one of every major scent in niche lines. I'd probably do it too though. I think some niche brands rely on you really wanting their brand and then giving you a scent you like within it rather than catching you because you adore one particular scent. That said I like these and the presentation is wonderful. Haven't found my 'one' yet though.<br /><br />The book sounds so exciting! congratulations! I was going to email you about your course in London too and haven't got round to it but I shall!Rosehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08459305021803770946noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-25176387716056709592010-08-10T20:40:03.140+02:002010-08-10T20:40:03.140+02:00Scentscelf, jasmine is really such an intrinsic pa...Scentscelf, jasmine is really such an intrinsic part of classic French perfumery that it's really what makes perfume perfume... As I'm sure you know, in Grasse it's "la fleur", The Flower. But as I wrote, there are only so many ways it can be treated as a soliflore: bring out the green, bring out the lactones, play it animal ou fruity...<br />For Drama Nuui, "bitter" may have been overstating it on my part: we're not in armoise territory here...carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-11171610281662084682010-08-10T20:14:46.225+02:002010-08-10T20:14:46.225+02:00It does seem obligatory, right? Growing up in car...It does seem obligatory, right? Growing up in car country, I remember when folks talked about the era when car companies started shifting from offering "their thing" to "one of everything." You need your sedan, your sporty car, your truck. At least Kilian isn't likely to worry about offering something at various price points, too. ;)<br /><br />Was recently conversing elsewhere about how frequently jasmine is used in more general compositions; I wonder if that is why fewer folks seek it out individually? Or, conversely, if it just is better -- as Norman said -- as a player in the orchestra, and not a soloist.<br /><br />I happen to be wearing Drama Nuui today. I *wish* it was bitter on me; instead, it always ends up being a warm green, in a nestled in white musk way. The opening doesn't even strike me as particularly bitter. But then, I enjoy being slapped awake by galbanum, and I often make Black Cashmere smell like dessert, so maybe I'm the one at fault. Or I've got a faulty nose. Either way, that's two arrows toward mea culpa.ScentScelfhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12264276265890227820noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-31318204952745762222010-08-10T17:46:53.234+02:002010-08-10T17:46:53.234+02:00Normand, oh God, yes! Drop those blotters m'am...Normand, oh God, yes! Drop those blotters m'am, and step away sloooowly. There's something almost medieval about it though: holding the emblem of your profession in a portrait... But you're right, I love to see what they look like as well.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-82449445864702713492010-08-10T17:43:34.811+02:002010-08-10T17:43:34.811+02:00I thought that The Guide did a good job with those...I thought that The Guide did a good job with those bottle silhouettes... pretty pictures of bottles wouldn't have added much.<br /><br />I'm always interested in seeing what the perfumers look like for some reason... but the cliché of the perfumer holding up a series of smelling strips has been hackneyed to death!<br /><br />For me, jasmine is like a rainbow... I love the idea of it, but as I approach it, I don't really know what I like about it. I think it's best used in the orchestra than as the lead.Normandhttp://www.theperfumechronicles.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-26330137629816897682010-08-10T16:56:23.821+02:002010-08-10T16:56:23.821+02:00MIWS, count me as another one of the tuberose gang...MIWS, count me as another one of the tuberose gang who doesn't do jasmine much, though I adore the note in a composition... Maybe that's why I'm not more sanguine about the Kilian.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-38653648393066133672010-08-10T16:38:22.042+02:002010-08-10T16:38:22.042+02:00"Think harder, Pierre," really cracked m..."Think harder, Pierre," really cracked me up - thanks for that!<br /><br />Turns out that while I am one of those freaks who'll try Everything Tuberose, that doesn't carry over to jasmine. I dunno why, just don't love it. Although I'll admit that J'Adore L'Absolu is certainly very pretty, and I *really* liked that sample of Septimanie Pavillon des Fleurs that Aedes tossed my way. But I own a discount bottle of Hanae Mori Haute Couture - a cheerful citrus/green jasmine thing that is the epitome of what a fruity floral should be: insouciant and no-sugar-added. I've been wearing it (and Vamp a NY) all summer. I need no more jasmine...<br /><br />I'm joining everyone else in eagerly awaiting your book.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-49980066933906929212010-08-10T16:05:33.465+02:002010-08-10T16:05:33.465+02:00Normand, I'm not sure yet about pictures in my...Normand, I'm not sure yet about pictures in my book but at the rate I'm going, there won't be much space for any, and frankly, it won't matter.<br />Funny, I had a lot of problems perceiving Jasmin Noir as well, and I seem to remember it happened also to Robin at NST. Not a good sign.carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-69171895790660925462010-08-10T16:00:37.928+02:002010-08-10T16:00:37.928+02:00I'm also dying to read your book. There is so...I'm also dying to read your book. There is so little really good stuff out there in print. I own as many books (in French and English) as I could find... but most are full-page advertisements with pictures of the bottles... total rip-off. And, meaningful text like... "This scent is for the woman of yesterday, today and tomorrow." Or... "This scent is for the strong woman who can be fragile when she needs to be." Or... "To be worn with a little black dress and pearls." Total BS.<br /><br />As for jasmine, SAs keep sending me over to Bvlgari's Jasmin Noir and it's a total disappointment. I have several samples. First of all, it doesn't smell like jasmine and secondly... after 10 minutes, it doesn't smell like anything at all!<br /><br />I'm going to try this Killian one, though. It sounds like it's worth a trip to the perfume counter.Normandhttp://www.theperfumechronicles.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-37274157834462835852010-08-10T15:02:51.243+02:002010-08-10T15:02:51.243+02:00Michael, I wouldn't have put Nuit Noire in the...Michael, I wouldn't have put Nuit Noire in the jasmine soliflores, it's a more complex composition to me. As for Mona di Orio not being liked, you can pin that one on Luca Turin's scathing reviews in The Guide, though I'm sure he'd say the fault lies with Mona di Orio herself! I'm not very familiar with her work, since it stopped being sold in Paris before I really got around to it (I'm a slow tester).carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-41957269425552881352010-08-10T14:59:40.966+02:002010-08-10T14:59:40.966+02:00I like the Kilians I have tried, particularly Back...I like the Kilians I have tried, particularly Back To Black. As you say, not groundbreaking, but well made. I thought of another niche Jasmine you didn't mention - Nuit Noir by Mona di Orio? It's a bit of a stinker and I know there seem to be quite a few people who don't like her work for some reason, but it is a different take on Jasmine, I think.Michaelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06894218954285865917noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-51235875569154854442010-08-10T09:13:18.362+02:002010-08-10T09:13:18.362+02:00Nozknoz, you'll have to wait a little longer f...Nozknoz, you'll have to wait a little longer for the book though... delayed gratification!carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-72869695870393634022010-08-10T04:36:25.236+02:002010-08-10T04:36:25.236+02:00Denyse, so glad to have BOTH the book and the Cart...Denyse, so glad to have BOTH the book and the Cartier and Kern reviews to look forward to! ~~ nozknozAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4922907157797061660.post-81458254340063100392010-08-09T18:57:46.394+02:002010-08-09T18:57:46.394+02:00Amy, you should maybe clear a niche! But a slot wi...Amy, you should maybe clear a niche! But a slot will suffice, it's not going to be an encyclopaedia...carmencanada /Grain de Muschttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04046101625425953248noreply@blogger.com